Place des Quinconces

In the heart of Bordeaux, France, lies one of the largest city squares in Europe, the Place des Quinconces. This vast and majestic space, spanning 12 hectares, is a hub of activity and a testament to the city's rich history and cultural vibrancy. With its grand esplanade, lush tree-lined promenades, and iconic monuments, the Place des Quinconces is a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Bordeaux.

The Origins of Place des Quinconces

The Place des Quinconces was established in the early 19th century on the site of the Château Trompette, a fortress built under Charles VII to control the rebellious city of Bordeaux. The fortress was enhanced by the famous military engineer Vauban during the reign of Louis XIV but lost its strategic importance by the 18th century. After being ceded to the city in 1816, the fortification was demolished, making way for the creation of the square between 1818 and 1828.

The name Quinconces comes from the original planting pattern of the trees, arranged in a quincunx—a geometric pattern where five points are arranged with four in a square or rectangle and the fifth at its center. Although the trees are now planted in straight lines, plans are in place to restore the original quincunx design as they are renewed.

A Grand Esplanade

The Place des Quinconces is dominated by a grand esplanade that gently slopes towards the Garonne River. This expansive open space is flanked by rows of trees, providing a serene and picturesque setting for a leisurely stroll. The esplanade is often bustling with activity, hosting a variety of events such as fairs, concerts, and the famous Foire aux Plaisirs funfair, which takes place twice a year in spring and autumn.

At the western end of the esplanade, facing the Garonne, stand two imposing rostral columns. These 21-meter-high columns, designed by Pierre-Alexandre Poitevin and completed in 1829, celebrate the themes of Commerce and Navigation. Each column is adorned with intricate sculptures of ship prows and anchors, symbolizing Bordeaux's maritime heritage.

The Monument aux Girondins

One of the most striking features of the Place des Quinconces is the Monument aux Girondins, a towering tribute to the Girondins, a group of moderate republican deputies who were executed during the Reign of Terror in the French Revolution. The monument, constructed between 1894 and 1902, is a masterpiece of neoclassical art and a symbol of the city's revolutionary spirit.

The monument consists of a 43-meter-high column topped with a bronze statue of Liberty breaking her chains. At the base of the column are two large basins adorned with dramatic bronze sculptures of horses and allegorical figures. These sculptures, created by Alphonse Dumilatre and Victor Rich, represent various virtues and vices, including Ignorance, Lies, and Vice, being trampled by the forces of Enlightenment and Progress.

During World War II, the bronze sculptures were removed by the occupying German forces, but they were recovered after the war and restored to their original place in 1983. Today, the Monument aux Girondins stands as a powerful reminder of Bordeaux's turbulent history and enduring resilience.

A Hub of Activity

The Place des Quinconces is not just a historical landmark; it is also a vibrant hub of activity in modern Bordeaux. The square is home to the Quinconces tram station, the largest public transport interchange in the city, making it easily accessible from all corners of Bordeaux. The station is served by three tram lines and numerous bus routes, ensuring that the Place des Quinconces remains a central meeting point for both locals and visitors.

Throughout the year, the Place des Quinconces hosts a variety of events that draw crowds from near and far. In addition to the biannual Foire aux Plaisirs, the square is the site of the annual Cirque Arlette Gruss, which sets up its big top in January to kick off its nationwide tour. The square also hosts antique fairs, food festivals, and open-air concerts, making it a lively and dynamic place to visit at any time of year.

Statues of Montaigne and Montesquieu

As you explore the Place des Quinconces, you will come across two impressive statues of famous Bordeaux natives: the philosophers Michel de Montaigne and Charles de Montesquieu. These statues, sculpted by Dominique Fortuné Maggesi and placed in the square in 1858, pay homage to the intellectual heritage of Bordeaux and its contribution to the Enlightenment.

Montaigne, known for his influential essays, and Montesquieu, renowned for his work on political theory and the separation of powers, are both celebrated figures in the history of philosophy. Their statues add a touch of scholarly elegance to the Place des Quinconces, inviting visitors to reflect on the city's rich cultural and intellectual legacy.

Conclusion

The Place des Quinconces is more than just a public square; it is a living testament to the history, culture, and spirit of Bordeaux. Whether you are captivated by its grand monuments, enjoying a leisurely stroll along its tree-lined promenades, or taking part in one of its many lively events, the Place des Quinconces offers something for everyone. As you stand in this magnificent space, you can feel the pulse of Bordeaux, a city that seamlessly blends its storied past with its vibrant present. A visit to the Place des Quinconces is an essential part of any trip to Bordeaux, offering a glimpse into the heart and soul of this beautiful city.