Royal monastery of Brou

The Royal Monastery of Brou, or Monastère royal de Brou as it is known in its native French, stands as a testament to the artistic and architectural splendor of the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. Located in the picturesque town of Bourg-en-Bresse in southeastern France, this magnificent structure is an exquisite blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and devotion of its builders.

The History of the Royal Monastery of Brou

The story of the Royal Monastery of Brou begins with a tale of love and devotion. In 1504, Duke Philibert II of Savoy, also known as Philibert the Handsome, tragically passed away at the young age of 24. His wife, Margaret of Austria, daughter of Emperor Maximilian I, was heartbroken. To honor her late husband and fulfill a vow made by her mother-in-law, Margaret decided to construct a monastery as a ducal mausoleum in Brou, a small village near Bourg-en-Bresse.

Margaret of Austria sought and received papal permission to replace an existing Benedictine establishment with an Augustinian monastery. She laid the foundation stone on August 28, 1506, but soon after, she left the region to assume regency over the Netherlands. Despite the distance, Margaret meticulously oversaw the construction, commissioning master craftsmen from France, Flanders, Germany, and Italy to bring her vision to life.

The Architectural Marvels of the Monastery

The monastery complex, completed by 1532, is a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements. The main church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Tolentino, is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic architecture, characterized by its ornate and intricate stonework. The three-tiered façade is adorned with statues, including those of Margaret and Philibert, as well as Saint Nicholas and other saints. The use of the Tudor arch and the richly decorated tympanum are notable features of this period.

The roof of the church is a striking example of Burgundian tradition, covered with glazed, multicolored tiles arranged in geometric patterns. This vibrant roof has been restored to its former glory, adding a splash of color to the serene surroundings.

Exploring the Interior of the Church

Stepping inside the church, visitors are greeted by the grandeur of its three-aisled basilica design. The choir, separated from the nave by a beautifully crafted rood screen, is particularly noteworthy. This screen, adorned with statues of saints, served as both a physical and symbolic barrier between the clergy and the laity.

The choir stalls, carved from oak by the artist Pierre Berchon, depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments. These intricately detailed stalls are a marvel of Renaissance woodwork, showcasing the skill and artistry of the period.

The centerpiece of the church, however, is the trio of tombs commissioned by Margaret of Austria. These tombs, crafted from white Carrara marble and St. Lothain alabaster, are dedicated to Margaret of Bourbon, Margaret of Austria, and Philibert the Handsome. Each tomb is a work of art, combining Gothic and Renaissance elements to create a poignant tribute to the deceased.

The Tombs: A Tribute to Love and Loss

The tomb of Margaret of Bourbon, Philibert's mother, is the simplest of the three. It features a recumbent effigy of Margaret in courtly attire, with a faithful greyhound at her feet. The tomb is adorned with putti holding heraldic shields and mourners in niches, reflecting the influence of Renaissance art.

Philibert the Handsome's tomb, located in the center of the choir, is a striking monument. The lower part of the tomb features a near-naked effigy of Philibert, idealized in youthful beauty. The upper effigy, however, depicts him as he appeared in life, dressed in ceremonial armor and accompanied by symbols of ducal authority. This dual representation captures the contrast between the ideal and the real, a common theme in Renaissance art.

The most elaborate tomb is that of Margaret of Austria herself. This tomb, resembling a canopied bed, is richly decorated with Gothic tracery and pinnacles. The lower effigy shows Margaret as a young woman, while the upper effigy depicts her in her later years, wearing a courtly dress and the distinctive Austrian ducal hat. The tomb is a testament to Margaret's high status and her deep love for her husband.

The Cloisters and Monastic Buildings

The monastery complex includes three cloisters, each with its own unique character. The first cloister, known as the Petit Cloître or Cloître des Hôtes, is the oldest and connects directly to the church. The upper floor of the west wing houses an apartment intended for Margaret, while the ground floor includes the sacristy and the first chapter house.

The Grand Cloître, or main cloister, features monk cells on the upper floor and the second chapter house on the ground floor. The Cloître de la Ménagerie, or Cloister of the Menagerie, includes the former kitchen and a covered well in its center.

The Museum: A Treasure Trove of Art and History

Since 1922, the former monastic buildings have housed a museum showcasing art and artifacts from the 12th to the 21st centuries. The museum's collection includes paintings by Flemish and French artists from the 16th to the 19th centuries, providing a fascinating glimpse into the region's artistic heritage.

Visitors can admire portraits of historical figures, including a young Charles V and Margaret of Austria, as well as a large-scale painting by Gustave Doré. The museum offers a rich and varied experience, appealing to art lovers and history enthusiasts alike.

In conclusion, the Royal Monastery of Brou is not just a historic monument; it is a symbol of love, devotion, and artistic excellence. Its stunning architecture, intricate tombs, and rich history make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the beauty and heritage of Bourg-en-Bresse and the wider region of southeastern France.