In the heart of Caltagirone, a town renowned for its rich history and stunning ceramics, lies the Museo Civico - Ex Carcere Borbonico. This fascinating museum, also known locally as Musei civici Luigi Sturzo, is housed in the imposing structure of the former Bourbon prison. Its walls, which once confined prisoners, now safeguard a treasure trove of art, history, and culture, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the past.
The building itself is a testament to the architectural ambitions of the Bourbon era. Constructed during the reign of the Bourbons, it was designed to resemble a castle, a nod to the fortress that was destroyed in the devastating earthquake of Val di Noto in 1693. The architect, Natale Bonaiuto from Syracuse, crafted a structure that exudes strength and grandeur, with its giant Ionic pilasters and a prominent cornice that commands attention.
Originally, the building served as a prison, with large rooms on the ground floor for common prisoners and isolated cells in the attic. The first floor housed a chapel and storage rooms, while the second floor accommodated officers and guards. This historical context adds a layer of intrigue to the museum’s current function, as visitors walk through spaces once steeped in a very different kind of history.
Today, the Museo Civico - Ex Carcere Borbonico is divided into three main sections: the archaeological section, the art gallery (Pinacoteca), and the historical collection. Each section offers a distinct perspective on the rich cultural tapestry of Caltagirone and its surroundings.
The archaeological section is a journey through time, showcasing artifacts that reveal the continuous human presence in the region. From Neolithic tools to Bronze and Iron Age burial items, the collection paints a vivid picture of early life in Sicily. Highlights include tholos tombs and artifacts from the Siculo-Greek urban center of Monte San Mauro, offering insights into the indigenous and Greek-influenced cultures of the area.
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Adjacent to the archaeological section is the Pinacoteca, a vibrant celebration of Sicilian art. The gallery features paintings from the 16th to the 20th century, with a special focus on local artists. Visitors can admire works by the Vaccaro family, who captured the transition from Classicism to Romanticism in Caltagirone. The gallery also houses a collection of exquisite Sicilian ceramics, including 18th-century busts representing the four seasons.
Noteworthy pieces include the 16th-century painting of Saint Anthony of Padua, a gift from a monk of the Monastery of San Benedetto, and the Conversion of Saint Paul by Pietro D'Asaro. These works, alongside others by artists like Francesco Lo Jacono and Beppe Ciardi, offer a rich tapestry of artistic expression and historical significance.
The historical section of the museum is a treasure trove of artifacts that narrate the story of Caltagirone’s past. Among the highlights is the intricately carved wooden fercolo of Saint James, a 16th-century masterpiece by Scipione di Guido. Visitors can also marvel at an 18th-century bishop’s sedan chair and garden vases from the Bongiovanni-Vaccaro workshop.
The collection includes historical documents, such as Norman-era parchments and seals, which provide insights into the privileges and feudal concessions of the time. Although not on display for conservation reasons, these documents underline the museum’s role as a custodian of Caltagirone’s rich heritage.
The Museo Civico - Ex Carcere Borbonico is part of a larger network of civic museums in Caltagirone. Visitors can also explore the permanent naturalistic exhibition at the former monastery of San Gregorio and the modern and contemporary art gallery housed in the Women’s Hospital building. These additional venues offer further opportunities to delve into the diverse cultural and natural history of the region.
In conclusion, the Museo Civico - Ex Carcere Borbonico is more than just a museum; it is a bridge to the past, a celebration of art, and a testament to the resilience and creativity of Caltagirone. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply a curious traveler, this museum promises an enriching experience that will linger in your memory long after you leave its storied halls.
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