In the charming city of Carrara, nestled in the heart of Tuscany, lies Piazza Antonio Gramsci, a historic and vibrant square that serves as a testament to the city’s rich cultural tapestry. This bustling piazza, once a princely garden, has evolved over centuries to become a beloved public space, offering a delightful blend of history, art, and nature.
Piazza Gramsci's origins date back to its days as a private garden for the prince, a serene enclave of greenery and tranquility. Over time, it transformed into Piazza d'Armi, a name still fondly remembered by locals. The significant overhaul came in 1887 under the stewardship of Mayor Agostino Marchetti, who envisioned a grand public space. The piazza was restructured, and a central garden was introduced, featuring a monument dedicated to Pellegrino Rossi, a notable political figure from Carrara.
In its early days, the square was known as Piazza Risorgimento, reflecting the spirit of the Italian unification. However, it was later renamed to honor Antonio Gramsci, a prominent political thinker. Despite its name changes, the essence of the piazza as a communal gathering spot has remained steadfast, enriched by its verdant areas, trees, and palms.
Walking through Piazza Gramsci, one cannot help but admire the diverse architectural styles that frame the square. The eastern side is graced by a picturesque staircase, adding a touch of grandeur to the piazza. The centerpiece is undoubtedly the fountain with the floating marble ball, a fascinating creation by American artist Kenneth Davis, completed in 1979 with the assistance of Mario Fruendi. This remarkable installation uses marble from the historic Polvaccio quarry, and a plaque commemorates Davis’s contribution to the piazza.
Surrounding the fountain are various monuments and buildings that narrate the history of Carrara. The Monument to Pellegrino Rossi, sculpted by Scipione Jardella under the supervision of Fernando Pelliccia, stands as a tribute to the jurist, draped in a heavy cloak, seated in contemplative repose. Despite being damaged by a bomb in 1978 and vandalized in subsequent years, the monument has been meticulously restored, preserving its historical significance.
Among the notable monuments is the tribute to Giuseppe Verdi, crafted by Giuseppe dell'Amico in 1919. Inspired by a song composed by Gabriele D'Annunzio, the monument features the Joy and Sorrow figures flanking a medallion with Verdi's effigy. The inscription pays homage to the composer and marks the date of its unveiling.
Another intriguing monument is La libertà che conquista le barbarie, an incomplete work attributed to French sculptor André-Joseph Allar. This piece, created between 1918 and 1924, adds a layer of artistic mystery to the piazza.
The monument to Alberto Meschi, the first in Italy dedicated to an anarchist, was unveiled in 1965. Sculpted by Ezio Nelli, it depicts Meschi among a group of quarrymen, with a mother holding a child to his left. The inscription celebrates Meschi's contributions to labor rights and his enduring legacy in Carrara.
On the eastern edge of the square stands the imposing Scuole Aurelio Saffi, an architectural gem designed by Leandro Caselli. Constructed between 1887 and 1890, this building was initially intended to house the Prefecture and various educational institutions. Its grand façade, adorned with monolithic marble columns, and spacious interiors reflect the opulence of its era. The building's design, influenced by Venetian and late 15th-century styles, features intricate marble decorations and allegorical ceiling medallions.
Facing the mountains, the Palazzo delle Figlie di Gesù, designed by Giustino Triscornia, adds a religious dimension to the piazza. Commissioned by Countess Antonietta Lazzoni, this 18th-century edifice boasts a unique enclosed courtyard and a marble colonnade. The escalating construction costs led to an increase in the marble tax by the Duke of Modena, a testament to the building's significance.
Behind the bust of Angelo Pelliccia, a 19th-century doctor and philosopher, stands another incomplete bust, adding to the piazza's artistic intrigue. The marble bardiglio Elephant Fountain, installed in the 1960s, and a charming gazebo with marble balustrades adorned with Carrara's coats of arms, further enrich the square's landscape.
Piazza Gramsci is more than just a public square; it is a living museum that encapsulates the spirit of Carrara. Its blend of historical monuments, architectural splendor, and lush greenery makes it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring this beautiful Tuscan city. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, Piazza Gramsci promises an unforgettable experience, inviting you to step back in time and immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Carrara.
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