The Second Monastery of the Visitación, or Segundo monasterio de la Visitación de Santa María, is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Madrid, offering a serene escape from the bustling city streets. Located on the historic Calle de San Bernardo, this monastery is a testament to the city's rich religious and architectural heritage.
The story of the Second Monastery of the Visitación begins in 1792, when María Luisa Centurión y Velasco, the Marquise of Villena and Estepa, sought permission to establish a convent for the Visitación nuns and a school dedicated to Saint Francis de Sales. This endeavor was not without its challenges, as the Archbishop of Toledo had prohibited new conventual foundations in Madrid. However, the Marquise's determination and the promise of educational benefits for the city's distinguished families ultimately secured approval.
The chosen location was a plot on Calle de San Bernardo, formerly occupied by the properties of Ángel de Carvajal Zúñiga y Lancaster, the Duke of Abrantes and Linares. The Marquise acquired these properties and, on November 18, 1793, the congregation moved into the refurbished houses. Notably, the construction of a church was undertaken to meet the needs of the cloistered community, with Manuel Bradi, a prolific master builder, leading the project. His architectural prowess is evident in the neoclassical design of the church's facade, which remains a highlight of the monastery.
The Second Monastery of the Visitación boasts a neoclassical facade that exudes simplicity and harmony. The church's exterior is marked by a rectangular structure divided into three sections, framed by four robust Tuscan pilasters made of granite. These support a prominent entablature, which adds a dynamic quality to the facade. Crowning the structure is a grand triangular pediment, topped with a stone cross, creating an imposing yet inviting entrance.
The central section of the facade features an entrance with a semi-circular pediment, above which is a relief by Julián San Martín, depicting Saint Francis de Sales presenting the Constitutions to Saint Jane Frances de Chantal. This artistic touch adds a layer of historical and religious significance to the building.
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Visitors stepping inside the monastery are greeted by a single nave church with a series of five bays, the widest of which houses the main chapel. The interior is adorned with a barrel vault ceiling, supported by Ionic pilasters with decorative garlands, and a developed entablature. The main altar is a masterpiece of marble and wood, featuring a large painting that commands attention. This area is subtly elevated and protected by a cast-iron balustrade, emphasizing its importance.
Beyond the church, the monastery complex includes five courtyards of varying sizes, surrounded by galleries. The gardens, although reduced in size over the years, offer a peaceful retreat with their L-shaped layout in the northeast corner of the property. A neo-Mudejar-inspired wall, built from brick and articulated with pilasters, encloses the garden, adding to the site's historical charm.
Throughout its history, the Second Monastery of the Visitación has demonstrated resilience and adaptability. In 1836, the convent was suppressed, and the community was relocated. The building later served as the Central University, with the church becoming the institution's auditorium. However, by 1850, the congregation returned to its original location, continuing its religious mission.
During the Spanish Civil War, the monastery suffered significant damage, but restoration efforts in the 1970s and again in 1993 have preserved its beauty and functionality. Today, it stands as a testament to Madrid's ability to blend history with modernity, offering visitors a glimpse into the past while serving contemporary needs.
In conclusion, the Second Monastery of the Visitación is more than just a religious site; it is a symbol of Madrid's rich cultural tapestry. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, yet they continue to provide a sanctuary of peace and reflection in the heart of the city. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply seeking a quiet moment amidst the urban hustle, this monastery is a must-visit destination.
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