Church of Santiago, Ciudad Real

The Church of Santiago, known locally as Iglesia de Santiago, is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Ciudad Real, Spain. This architectural marvel, dating back to the late 13th and early 14th centuries, is a testament to the rich historical tapestry and cultural heritage of the region. Declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (a designation for cultural heritage sites in Spain) in 1982, the Church of Santiago stands as a proud beacon of late Romanesque and early Gothic architecture, with fascinating hints of Islamic influence.

The History of the Church of Santiago

Legend has it that the Church of Santiago was built on the site of an ancient hermitage, though this claim remains undocumented. The land on which it stands was once part of a sparsely populated area known as Pozuelo Seco de Don Gil, long before Ciudad Real blossomed into the vibrant city it is today. In the early 13th century, a defensive tower was erected on this site, coinciding with the destruction of Alarcos. This tower would later serve as the foundation for the church's bell tower.

As the oldest church in Ciudad Real, the Church of Santiago played a crucial role in the city's development. It was located in the Jewish Quarter, which gradually became populated by Christians following the city's founding in 1255 as Villa Real. The church thus became the parish center for one of the three districts that made up the city, specifically the northeast district between Toledo and Calatrava streets.

The Architectural Splendor

The Church of Santiago is a Gothic masterpiece with three naves and pointed arches. The central nave is adorned with a stunning fresco in the apse depicting eight dragons, a rare and fascinating sight. In one of the side chapels, visitors can find a 16th-century fresco featuring the coat of arms of the Order of Santiago. The Chapel of the Holy Christ of Charity boasts a vault key adorned with the arms of the Catholic Monarchs.

One of the most captivating features of the church is the Gothic mural in the nave of the Gospel, which depicts the Mass of Saint Gregory. The lateral naves are decorated with various capitals featuring human heads and scallop shells, symbols of Saint James the Apostle.

The Mudejar Ceiling

Step inside the Church of Santiago, and you will be greeted by a breathtaking Mudejar ceiling in the central nave. This exquisite piece of craftsmanship, influenced by Almohad tradition, is made of polychrome wood in a vibrant yellow hue, enhanced by varnishes. The ceiling is adorned with intricate latticework and octagonal stars with lobed flowers made of silver leaf. Adding to its decorative charm are thirty-two polychrome corbels bearing heraldic shields, along with a frieze-like cornice featuring series of heraldic shields and human-shaped scallop shells of Saint James.

The dating of this ceiling was made possible by the discovery of a coin from the reign of Henry III of Castile, hidden among the corbels. This coin, minted in Toledo between 1390 and 1406, alongside the representation of the red Cross of Calatrava (which was depicted in black until the 15th century), suggests that the ceiling's construction began in the 14th century and was completed in the 15th century. The ceiling was commissioned by Pedro Muñiz de Godoy, the master of the Order of Calatrava.

Restorations and Discoveries

Between 1985 and 1989, the Church of Santiago underwent significant restoration work led by the Ministry of Education and Culture of the Junta de Comunidades de Castilla-La Mancha. This project unveiled the hidden Mudejar ceiling, which had been concealed by an 18th-century barrel vault. The restoration also involved consolidating the tower's structure, demolishing a contemporary brick canopy at the entrance, and uncovering mural paintings by cleaning the walls and removing layers of plaster. The frescoes in the apses, featuring original dragon paintings, were found to be in excellent condition, preserved by a protective layer of whitewash.

A Place of Devotion

The Church of Santiago serves as the canonical seat for four brotherhoods. During Ciudad Real's Holy Week, a celebration declared of National Tourist Interest, these brotherhoods process on Holy Thursday, although they must start from the Guardapasos due to the small size of the church's door. The brotherhoods include the Sacramental Brotherhood of the Holy Supper and Mary Most Holy of the Sweet Name, the Brotherhood of Ecce Homo (Pilate), the Brotherhood of the Holy Christ of Charity, and the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Sorrows.

Additional Information and Curiosities

Visitors can explore the Church of Santiago daily from 12:00 to 13:00 hours (except in July and August) and from 18:30 to 20:15 hours. The church is also the starting point for the Camino Manchego de Santiago, a pilgrimage route. During restoration work in 1985, an ancient medieval cemetery was discovered, filling two containers with human bones. Additionally, a stone-carved cross and a Jewish funerary stele were found here, now displayed in the Museum of Ciudad Real.

The Church of Santiago is not just a place of worship; it is a living museum, a testament to the rich history and cultural heritage of Ciudad Real. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or a spiritual pilgrim, a visit to this remarkable church promises to be an unforgettable experience.