St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church, nestled in the charming coastal town of Folkestone, Kent, is a beacon of historical and architectural splendor. This Grade II* listed Anglican church is not only a place of worship but also a treasure trove of history, dating back to the 13th century. With its unique central tower and fascinating tales from centuries past, the church offers a captivating journey through time for every visitor.
The story of St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church is deeply intertwined with the life of St Eanswythe, an Anglo-Saxon princess born around 630 AD. She was the granddaughter of King Æthelberht of Kent, who was converted to Christianity by the famed Augustine of Canterbury, and the daughter of King Eadbald of Kent. Eanswythe is believed to have been the abbess of a nunnery that once stood on the site where the church now resides.
The nunnery faced a tumultuous history, with theories suggesting it was either destroyed by the encroaching sea or sacked by Vikings in 867 AD. However, in 1138, Folkestone Priory was established, and a new church dedicated to St Mary and St Eanswythe was built. The relics of St Eanswythe were ceremoniously moved to the church on September 12, 1138. Although the building was ravaged by fire in 1216, it was restored by 1220 and extended further in 1236, laying the foundation for the present structure.
Visitors to St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church can still see remnants of the earlier medieval church. The chancel arcade hails from the 13th century, while the Lady Chapel and St Eanswythe's Chapel, along with the arches of the central tower, date back to the 15th century. The church underwent significant reconstruction in the 19th century under the guidance of Canon Matthew Woodward, who served as vicar from 1851 to 1898. The nave and north aisle were rebuilt in the 1850s by R.C. Hussey, with further enhancements including the west window and porch by Stallwood in 1872, and the south chancel aisle and transept in 1869.
One of the most intriguing discoveries in the church's history occurred during renovations in 1885. A 12th-century reliquary was unearthed in a niche near the altar, containing the bones of a young woman from the 7th century. Based on the location and ornamentation, it was concluded that these were the remains of St Eanswythe. The relics were re-interred in the same niche, now protected by a brass door and grille. In early 2020, scientific re-examination confirmed that the bones almost certainly belonged to St Eanswythe, adding a layer of authenticity and reverence to the church's historical narrative.
The church's musical heritage is equally impressive, with records indicating the presence of an organ as early as 1528. The current organ, crafted by William Hill & Sons of London in 1894, was later rebuilt and expanded in 1930 by Hill, Norman & Beard, now boasting 39 stops. This magnificent instrument continues to fill the church with melodious hymns, enriching the spiritual experience for parishioners and visitors alike.
The churchyard of St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church is a serene resting place that has recently been reopened for new interments. In December 2023, King Charles III granted permission for the burial of William Brown, a local boy tragically killed in a hit-and-run incident, marking a poignant moment in the church's ongoing story as a community sanctuary.
St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the resilience and faith of the Folkestone community. The church's architectural features, including the stunning 15th-century arches and the intricate stained-glass windows by C.E. Kempe, offer a visual feast for art and history enthusiasts. The three altar windows and those in the Lady Chapel are particularly noteworthy, showcasing Kempe's masterful craftsmanship.
For those seeking spiritual solace, the church provides a tranquil environment for reflection and prayer. The legacy of St Eanswythe, the architectural splendor, and the serene churchyard collectively create an atmosphere of reverence and peace, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Folkestone.
In conclusion, St Mary and St Eanswythe's Church is a jewel in Folkestone's crown, offering a rich tapestry of history, art, and spirituality. Whether you are a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a moment of quiet reflection, this church promises a memorable and enriching experience. Step through its ancient doors and embark on a journey through centuries of faith, resilience, and community spirit.
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