In the heart of Genoa's historic center, on the illustrious Via Garibaldi, stands the magnificent Palazzo Rosso. This grand edifice, also known as the Palazzo Francesco Ridolfo Brignole Sale, is a testament to the opulence and artistic excellence of Genoese architecture. As one of the Palazzi dei Rolli, designated to host high-ranking guests during state visits, Palazzo Rosso is steeped in history and brimming with artistic treasures. It is part of the Strada Nuova Museums, including Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria-Tursi, making it a must-visit for art enthusiasts and history buffs alike.
The construction of Palazzo Rosso began in 1671 and was completed in 1677, commissioned by the Brignole Sale brothers, Rodolfo and Gio Francesco. The Genoese architect Pietro Antonio Corradi designed the palace, opting for a U-shaped layout, similar to his work on Palazzo Balbi Senarega. This design choice provided distinct living quarters for each brother while maintaining the grandeur of a single unified palace. Upon the death of Rodolfo, Giovanni Francesco I Brignole Sale became the sole owner and embarked on a mission to decorate the palace's interior with the finest artistry of the period.
The initial decorative efforts focused on the second noble floor, starting in 1679. Renowned artists Domenico Piola and Gregorio De Ferrari, along with quadraturists and stucco artists Antonio and Enrico Haffner, were commissioned for this task. The grand hall's ceiling was adorned with the fresco Phaethon at the Court of Apollo by De Ferrari, a masterpiece tragically lost during World War II bombings. However, a preparatory sketch of the fresco remains on display in the hall. The walls feature The Chariot of the Sun, a large canvas by Domenico Piola, depicting a celestial scene.
Adjacent to the grand hall are the Four Seasons Rooms, each dedicated to a different season and considered masterpieces of Genoese Baroque art. The Allegory of Spring, painted between 1686 and 1687 by De Ferrari, showcases Venus and Cupid charming Mars amidst a flurry of flowers and cherubs. The room's three-dimensional elements, created by stucco artist Giacomo Maria Muttone, enhance the illusionistic space. In the Allegory of Summer, Ceres, the goddess of harvest, is depicted with a golden sheaf of wheat, accompanied by Apollo and the zodiac sign of Leo, symbolizing both summer and the Brignole family's heraldic emblem.
Domenico Piola's work continues in the Allegory of Autumn and Allegory of Winter rooms, created in collaboration with Muttone and quadraturist Sebastiano Monchi. The Allegory of Autumn features a youthful Bacchus with Ariadne, surrounded by Silenus, bacchants, centaurs, satyrs, and golden stucco friezes mimicking grapevines. The Allegory of Winter portrays a young man warming himself by a brazier, with scenes of carnival and hunting, reflecting influences from Correggio's art. The architectural perspectives on the walls are the work of Niccolò Codazzi.
One of the most original spaces in Palazzo Rosso is the Loggia of Ruins, also known as the Loggia of Diana, painted around 1689 by Paolo Gerolamo Piola, son of Domenico Piola. This unique space features the myth of Diana and Endymion set amidst the ruins of a palace. Codazzi's fictive architectures provide a backdrop for Piola's depiction of Diana descending from the heavens to reach the sleeping Endymion, accompanied by satyrs and dogs. This narrative complements the central hall's Apollo-Sun theme, creating a cosmological celebration of the Brignole-Sale family.
The 18th century saw further decorative endeavors under the patronage of Anton Giulio II Brignole-Sale and his son Giovanni Francesco II. Anton Giulio II commissioned the mezzanine apartment's decoration, which was reopened to the public in 2022. The first room, a small gallery, features flying cherubs by Gregorio De Ferrari and quadratures by Francesco Costa. The second room, known as the Grotto Room, was frescoed by Domenico Parodi, depicting scenes from Roman mythology with trompe-l'oeil architecture by Tommaso Aldovrandini, creating an illusion of a natural cave within the urban setting.
The bedroom includes a small raised alcove with mirrored walls and a baroque stucco decoration featuring cherubs holding a floral canopy. The ceiling is painted with a starry sky, attributed to Gregorio De Ferrari. The parquet flooring, a novelty in Italy at the time, bears Anton Giulio II's monogram, repeated throughout the apartment. Giovanni Francesco II continued the decorative work in the mid-18th century, commissioning Giacomo Boni to create a small mirrored salon.
Today, Palazzo Rosso is a vibrant museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Genoese aristocracy. The palace's art collections, primarily from the Brignole-Sale family, are displayed in rooms that retain their original furnishings and decorations. As part of the Strada Nuova Museums, Palazzo Rosso, along with Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria-Tursi, provides a comprehensive journey through Genoa's artistic heritage.
Whether you are an art lover, history enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, Palazzo Rosso promises an unforgettable experience. Its walls echo the grandeur of Genoese nobility, and its halls are adorned with masterpieces that narrate the rich cultural tapestry of this historic city. A visit to Palazzo Rosso is not just a step back in time but a celebration of Genoa's enduring legacy of art and architecture.
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