In the picturesque town of Martigues, nestled in the heart of Provence, lies the enchanting Maison du chemin de Paradis, also known locally as Maison du chemin du Paradis. This historic bastide, which dates back to the 16th century, has become a symbol of the region's rich cultural heritage and a testament to the life and legacy of its most famous resident, Charles Maurras.
The Maison du chemin de Paradis was originally constructed in the 16th century and later became the family home of Charles Maurras, a prominent French writer and political thinker. The property was inherited by Maurras' mother, Marie-Pélagie Garnier, in 1881. Legend has it that the house was built using stones from the old church of L'Île, adding an extra layer of historical intrigue to its story.
The bastide, with its three levels and three to four rooms on each floor, is surrounded by towering cypress trees and is overlooked by an ancient mill perched a few hundred meters above. Throughout his life, Maurras cherished this family home, often retreating here during the summer and at various times throughout the year to find solace and inspiration.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Maison du chemin de Paradis is its extensive library. Maurras meticulously transferred his entire collection of books from his Parisian apartment to his beloved Provençal abode, establishing it as the heart of a great writer's home. His vision was to create a center for free literary and historical studies, a place that would be part museum, part library, and a haven for young, talented individuals with a passion for personal research.
The library, which houses over twelve thousand books, includes many volumes dedicated by notable authors such as André Gide, André Malraux, Anatole France, Paul Valéry, and Joseph Kessel. This impressive collection provides a unique glimpse into the literary world of the early 20th century and reflects Maurras' deep connections with his contemporaries.
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The garden of Maison du chemin de Paradis is a true jewel of Martigues, offering a vivid summary of the town's history and memory. Maurras designed the garden with great care, planting a variety of Mediterranean species that evoke a sense of the region's natural beauty. The garden features Greek amphorae, Provençal and French inscriptions, and statues that celebrate the area's rich cultural heritage.
One notable feature is the monument dedicated to Gérard Tenque, the founder of the Order of the Knights Templar, who was born in Martigues. This symbolic garden, planned according to a detailed execution plan from 1943 and described in Maurras' text Le pain et le vin published in 1944, showcases his creative vision and deep appreciation for history and nature.
Another remarkable element of the property is the Wall of Fastes, constructed in 1944 under Maurras' direction. Although Maurras did not live to see its completion, the wall stands as a testament to his enduring legacy. The inscriptions on the wall, written in capital letters, summarize the history of Martigues, from the arrival of the Phocaean colonists in the 6th century BCE to notable figures and events throughout the centuries.
In front of the Wall of Fastes, a bust of Maurras, sculpted by the architect and sculptor Henry Bernard, Grand Prix de Rome, is installed. The bust rests on a merlon from the Greek wall or a mascaron from the Saint-Blaise archaeological site, adding another layer of historical depth to the site.
In accordance with Maurras' last wishes, his heart was separated from his body and buried in the garden of Maison du chemin de Paradis, while his remains were interred in Roquevaire. The heart is housed in a carditaphe located below the Wall of Fastes, to the left in the garden. During the final ceremony, the heart was blessed by the Ferrières parish priest, and Victor Rolland paid tribute to Maurras on behalf of the Martigues fishermen's guild.
Despite initial resistance from the Martigues municipal council, which questioned the validity of Maurras' will due to his life sentence, the property was eventually accepted as a municipal gift in 1997. The mayor at the time, Paul Lombard, received the keys from Jacques Maurras, Charles Maurras' nephew, in a ceremony attended by Michel Déon, a former secretary of Maurras and a representative of the French Academy.
Since then, the municipality has invested significantly in the restoration of the site, ensuring that the house and garden are preserved as a writer's home and a center for research on 20th-century political thought. Although the house is currently closed to the public for safety reasons, plans are underway to reopen it as a resource center for researchers.
In conclusion, Maison du chemin de Paradis is more than just a historic house; it is a living testament to the rich cultural heritage of Martigues and the enduring legacy of Charles Maurras. Its walls and gardens echo the stories of the past, inviting visitors to explore and reflect on the history and beauty of this remarkable place.
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