In the heart of Nancy, France, lies the enchanting Place de la Carrière, a splendid square that seamlessly blends historical grandeur with timeless elegance. This picturesque space, part of the UNESCO World Heritage ensemble along with Place Stanislas and Place d'Alliance, offers visitors a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Lorraine's architectural and cultural heritage.
The origins of Place de la Carrière date back to the 16th century. Initially known as Rue Neuve in 1551 and later Rue de la Carrière in 1573, the name reflects its historical use as a venue for tournaments, jousts, and other knightly pursuits. The term Carrière itself signifies a place where such equestrian activities were held, providing a fitting backdrop for the noble residences that began to spring up around it.
During its early years, the square was a bustling hub of activity, with French forces creating the Porte Royale in the late 16th century to connect the medieval city to the newer southern parts of Nancy. This gate, which was later transformed into a triumphal arch, marked the beginning of the square’s transformation into a symbol of classical urban planning.
The most significant transformation of Place de la Carrière came in the 18th century under the reign of Stanislas Leszczynski, the former King of Poland and Duke of Lorraine. Stanislas envisioned a grand urban ensemble that would unify the old and new parts of the city, with Place de la Carrière playing a central role in this plan.
At the northern end of the square, on the ruins of an unfinished palace intended to be the new Louvre, the Palais de l'Intendance (now the Palais du Gouvernement) was constructed. This magnificent building, adorned with statues and busts of Olympian gods, is framed by a semicircular colonnade that adds to the architectural harmony of the square. The symmetrical layout is further enhanced by the Hôtel Héré and Hôtel de Morvilliers, two elegant mansions that flank the Palais de l'Intendance.
The architectural coherence of Place de la Carrière is one of its most striking features. Emmanuel Héré, the royal architect of Stanislas, played a crucial role in unifying the facades of the Renaissance-era mansions lining the square. His classical design brought a sense of order and elegance, creating a visually appealing promenade that invites leisurely strolls and quiet contemplation.
The southern end of the square is marked by the Arc Héré, a triumphal arch that serves as a grand entrance from Place Stanislas. This architectural masterpiece, with its intricate carvings and gilded details, sets the tone for the splendor that awaits within Place de la Carrière.
One of the most charming aspects of Place de la Carrière is its central esplanade, which has been transformed into a lush green space over the centuries. Originally bordered by orange trees, the esplanade is now lined with linden trees, providing a shady retreat for visitors. The square is also adorned with rococo vases created by sculptors Mesny and Lépy, as well as fountains featuring playful groups of children at the corners, adding a whimsical touch to the serene setting.
Place de la Carrière is home to several historically significant buildings and monuments. The Arc Héré and the semicircular colonnade were designated as historical monuments in 1923, recognizing their architectural and cultural value. The Palais du Gouvernement and its exedras were also classified as historical monuments, and the entire ensemble was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1983.
Other notable buildings include the Hôtel de Beauvau-Craon, now the Court of Appeal of Nancy, and the former Bourse des Marchands, currently the Administrative Court of Nancy. These buildings, with their classical facades and rich histories, contribute to the square's status as a living museum of Lorraine's architectural evolution.
Today, Place de la Carrière continues to be a vibrant part of Nancy's cultural life. Since 2004, it has hosted the Nancy Book Fair, Le Livre sur la Place, attracting literary enthusiasts from near and far. The square also comes alive every two years with the 24h de Stan, a student-run chariot race that brings together participants from various higher education institutions in the region. These events, along with the daily comings and goings of locals and tourists, ensure that Place de la Carrière remains a dynamic and cherished part of Nancy.
In conclusion, Place de la Carrière is more than just a square; it is a testament to the rich history and architectural brilliance of Nancy. Its harmonious blend of classical design, historical significance, and modern-day vibrancy make it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting this beautiful French city. Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply looking for a peaceful spot to relax, Place de la Carrière offers something for everyone.
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