Nestled atop the historic Kastro in the charming town of Chora on the island of Naxos, the Church of Presentation of the Lord stands as a beacon of history and spirituality. This captivating structure, with its rich past and architectural elegance, invites visitors to step back in time and explore the layers of history embedded within its walls.
The Church of Presentation of the Lord, once a cathedral, has its roots deeply intertwined with the history of Naxos. The story begins in the early 13th century, following the Fourth Crusade, when the Venetian noble Marco Sanudo established the Duchy of the Archipelago. To fortify his domain, Sanudo constructed the Kastro, a Venetian castle, possibly on the remnants of an ancient Byzantine fortification.
Within these fortified walls, the church was erected, initially featuring a central nave adorned with a dome and two side aisles. Over time, the structure expanded to include additional aisles, making it a five-aisled marvel. The materials used for its construction were sourced from the ruins of the ancient Acropolis and the unfinished Temple of Apollo, whose iconic Portara still stands as a symbol of Naxos.
As you approach the church, the first thing that captures your attention is its impressive façade, clad in Tinos marble, a result of renovations carried out in 1963. The entrance, located on the western side, is adorned with four coats of arms, including those of Marco Sanudo, although partially obscured by the façade. Above the entrance, the bell tower rises, offering a glimpse into the architectural prowess of its creators.
Inside, the church is a treasure trove of art and history. The main nave, aligned from west to east, culminates in a grand altar at the eastern end. The central dome, perched on a circular drum with four windows, allows light to spill into the heart of the church. The windows, crafted by artists from Chios in 1744, are embellished with intricate baroque wood carvings, adding a touch of elegance to the sacred space.
As you wander through the church, you’ll notice the floors paved with Naxian marble, under which lie the gravestones of noble Venetian families, their coats of arms telling tales of a bygone era. During a restoration in 1972, ancient columns from the 4th to 6th centuries were discovered beneath layers of plaster and stone, offering a glimpse into the church’s ancient origins.
The church houses several altars dedicated to various saints, each with its own unique story. One notable altar is that of the Archangel Michael, dating back to the early 17th century. The altar painting depicts the archangel in Roman armor, brandishing a sword against the devil, a powerful image of good triumphing over evil.
Behind the main altar, a baroque retable stands, crowned with a French lily beneath a crown, housing the revered icon of the Merciful Madonna. This 11th or 12th-century icon, depicting the Virgin Mary as the Hodegetria with the Christ child, is steeped in legend. It is said to have been washed ashore on Naxos after falling into the sea near Nicomedia. The icon, a double-sided masterpiece with John the Baptist on the reverse, was restored in 1970 and is now displayed in a rotating frame, allowing visitors to admire both sides.
In the northern aisle, you'll find an altar dedicated to the Crucifixion of Christ, featuring a poignant depiction of Mary Magdalene, Saint John, and the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross. Above, an image of God the Father and the Holy Spirit watches over the scene.
Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Roch, depicted with his faithful dog, a testament to his enduring legacy as a protector against the plague. The church also boasts a rare icon of the Galaktotrophousa, the nursing Madonna, a symbol of maternal care and divine nourishment.
The Church of Presentation of the Lord is not just a monument; it is a living testament to the island's Venetian past and the resilience of its Catholic community. Despite the passage of time and the challenges of history, it remains a vibrant center of faith and culture, inviting visitors to explore its sacred halls and uncover the stories etched into its stones.
As you leave the church, take a moment to reflect on the rich tapestry of history that surrounds you. The Church of Presentation of the Lord is more than a building; it is a gateway to understanding the intricate dance of history, faith, and art that has shaped the island of Naxos for centuries.
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