San Nicolás

San Nicolás, known locally as Iglesia de San Nicolás, is a stunning piece of architectural history nestled in the heart of Pamplona, Spain. This remarkable church stands as a testament to the city’s medieval past, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the fusion of religious and military architecture that characterized the region during the Middle Ages.

The Historical Tapestry of San Nicolás

Dating back to the 12th century, San Nicolás is one of Pamplona's five ancient parishes. Its history is intertwined with the city’s medieval narrative, where it served not only as a spiritual haven but also as a defensive bastion. The earliest records of the church date to 1117, when it was part of the Burgo Nuevo or Población de San Nicolás, one of the three independent boroughs that made up Pamplona at the time.

San Nicolás was strategically built alongside the city’s original outer wall, serving as a military stronghold in defiance of royal decrees that forbade such constructions. In 1222, the church was razed during a conflict with neighboring San Cernin, leading to its reconstruction and consecration in 1231. This turbulent past is still evident in its robust structure, with thick walls and a surviving watchtower that narrate tales of its defensive role.

Architectural Marvels of San Nicolás

The exterior of San Nicolás is a fascinating blend of styles. While the Gothic elements are primarily visible in the doors, apse, and parts of the high walls, much of the original design is hidden beneath later additions. The 19th-century architect Ángel Goicoechea Lizarraga left his mark with a neo-Gothic portico and a parish house featuring neo-Mudéjar elements. The medieval eclecticism is further highlighted by a façade that opens onto the Paseo de Sarasate.

The church once boasted multiple towers, but today only two remain. The larger tower, with its machicolations and Baroque brick finish, houses the bells, while the smaller, circular tower stands as a silent witness to its storied past. The battlements, added by José Martínez de Ubago in 1924, complete the fortress-like appearance of this historical edifice.

Exploring the Interior

Step inside San Nicolás, and you’ll be greeted by a serene yet awe-inspiring interior. The church is laid out in a Latin cross plan, with three naves. The lateral naves feature pointed barrel vaults, while the central nave boasts ribbed vaulting, illustrating the evolution of Gothic architecture over time.

The interior is a harmonious blend of protogothic and 14th-century Gothic styles. The ribbed vaulting of the central nave and transept, along with the presbytery and its stained glass windows, are particularly noteworthy. Among the church’s treasures is a magnificent Baroque organ, built in 1769, which is considered one of Pamplona’s most significant musical instruments.

In 2013, four heraldic shields were added to the high walls of the main nave, representing the ancient boroughs of Navarrería, San Nicolás, and San Cernin, as well as the city of Pamplona itself. These were meticulously painted by the Navarrese artist Jorge Urdánoz Apezteguía, using oil techniques with gold and silver leaf applications on wood. The shields, measuring 1.8 meters high and 1.5 meters wide, were blessed during a mass on December 8th of the same year.

A Journey Through Time

Visiting San Nicolás is akin to stepping back in time. As you explore its nooks and crannies, you’ll uncover stories of conflict, faith, and resilience. The church’s dual role as a place of worship and a military fortification is palpable, offering a unique perspective on the historical complexities of Pamplona.

The surrounding area, with its charming streets and vibrant atmosphere, enhances the experience. After exploring the church, take a leisurely stroll through the Casco Antiguo, where each corner reveals another layer of Pamplona’s rich history.

Conclusion

San Nicolás is more than just a church; it is a symbol of Pamplona’s enduring spirit and historical significance. Its walls echo the stories of a bygone era, inviting visitors to delve into the past and discover the intricate tapestry of events that shaped this captivating city. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, San Nicolás promises an unforgettable journey through time.