In the charming town of Paterna, located in the province of Valencia, Spain, lies a hidden gem that beckons history enthusiasts and art lovers alike—the Museu de Ceràmica de Paterna. This municipal museum, known locally as Museo de Cerámica de Paterna, offers a fascinating journey through the rich history of local pottery, showcasing pieces from the Middle Ages and the Modern Age, specifically from the 13th to the 16th centuries. As you step through its doors, you are transported back in time to an era where ceramics were not just functional items but also works of art that told stories of the past.
The Museu de Ceràmica de Paterna was inaugurated in 1980, initially housed in the iconic Torre de Paterna. Over the years, it has moved to different locations, finally finding its home in the old town hall, a building dating back to 1881. This picturesque location in the Plaza del Pueblo, nestled between the first and second circles of medieval walls that once surrounded Paterna, adds to the museum's historical ambiance.
The museum is a proud member of the Network of Local Ethnological Museums, coordinated by the Valencian Museum of Ethnology since 2017. All the artifacts in the museum are the result of archaeological excavations in the area, making it a treasure trove of historical significance. The museum not only focuses on exhibition but also engages in study, conservation, restoration, and dissemination of knowledge. It even boasts a specialized library with extensive bibliographic and documentary resources related to ceramics, heritage, and archaeology.
As you enter the ground floor of the museum, you are greeted by an exhibition of Roman materials recovered from the Roman villa of Paterna. This exhibit features a variety of artifacts, including funerary steles, metal figures, coins, glass paste objects, tools for repairing dolia, and high-imperial ceramics. These items provide a glimpse into the life and customs of the Roman inhabitants of Paterna.
Another room on the ground floor showcases tiles from different periods, spanning from the 14th to the 19th centuries. These tiles, unearthed during recent excavations in the municipality, highlight the evolution of ceramic art and techniques over the centuries.
One of the highlights of the first floor is the collection of socarrats, a type of ceramic tile unique to Paterna. The term socarrat means cooked once in Valencian, and these tiles were typically used as decorative elements in the lower parts of house eaves and between wooden beams. Dating back to the 15th century, socarrats feature imaginative and sometimes esoteric iconography, with common motifs including human figures, animals, heraldic symbols, and geometric patterns. The socarrats are displayed alongside rodells, clay discs used in pottery wheels.
Another captivating exhibit on the first floor is the collection of green and manganese ceramics, which includes a variety of items such as washbasins, lamps, bowls, jars, and pitchers. These pieces, decorated in green and black, purple, or brown on a white background, date from the early 14th century to the late 14th century. The museum posits that these ceramics were produced from the mid-13th century, as evidenced by findings in Pobla de Ifach.
The next room features a small but impressive display of tableware with heraldic, geometric, and vegetal motifs, decorated in blue (cobalt oxide) from the 14th century. Alongside these are pieces of rough pottery, typically decorated in black (manganese oxide) and sometimes glazed with lead for waterproofing. These items, dating back to the 13th century, include cooking pots, lamps, pitchers, and even a reproduction of a Muslim burial and a bride's pitcher.
The final exhibit on the first floor showcases ceramics from the 15th and 16th centuries, featuring a variety of decorations. The collection includes bisque-fired pieces with geometric motifs in black, as well as a display of 15th-century tableware decorated in blue, with zoomorphic, vegetal, and geometric elements. Noteworthy items include a set of ointment jars and glass bottles.
One of the most enchanting rooms in the museum is dedicated to golden ceramics, a technique that requires three firings to achieve the characteristic golden color. This method, which emerged in Paterna in the 13th century, evolved alongside society, blending elements from both the Muslim and Christian worlds. The golden ceramics room features pieces adorned with Gothic roses, angels, parsley leaves, and other motifs, reflecting the cultural symbiosis of the time.
The museum tour concludes in the reproductions room, where visitors can see scale models of the Paterna pottery kiln, the firing chamber, and the potter's wheel. This room also includes a model explaining the principle of stratigraphy and a small exhibit of tripods and llongos (tools for arranging pieces in the kiln) and pieces with firing defects.
The Museu de Ceràmica de Paterna is not just a museum; it is a journey through time that offers a unique insight into the rich history and artistry of Paterna's ceramics. Whether you are a history buff, an art enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to this museum is sure to be an unforgettable experience.
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