The Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité, or as it's known in the local language, église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural grandeur of Périgueux, France. This remarkable Romanesque church, once the first cathedral of Périgueux, has witnessed centuries of history, from its early beginnings in the 6th century to its present-day splendor. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité offers a captivating glimpse into the past.
The story of the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité begins in the ancient Civitas Petrucoriorum, the Gallo-Roman city of the Petrocorii, where an early Christian church was erected on the site of a former temple dedicated to the god Mars. This initial church, built in the early 6th century by Bishop Chronope II, laid the foundation for what would become the first cathedral of Périgueux.
The construction of the current Romanesque structure began in the 11th century, with the western nave, and concluded in the 12th century with the completion of the choir. Originally, the church featured a single nave with three square bays, a flat chevet, and two domes. At its zenith, it boasted four domes and a prominent bell tower, marking it as an architectural marvel of its time.
However, the church's history is not without its trials. In 1577, during the Wars of Religion, the cathedral suffered significant damage at the hands of the Huguenots. A devastating fire and the destruction of half of the structure led to the loss of the two westernmost bays and their domes, as well as the bell tower. The bell tower was later restored in 1620, but further damage occurred during the Fronde in 1652.
By 1669, the episcopal seat was transferred to the nearby Saint-Front Church, which became the new cathedral, relegating Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité to the status of a parish church. Despite these setbacks, the church has undergone several restoration campaigns, most notably in the early 20th century and more recently from 2010 to 2020, ensuring its preservation for future generations.
Despite the extensive damage and subsequent restorations, the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité retains much of its original Romanesque charm. Visitors can marvel at the remaining original bay and the two surviving domes, one of which spans an impressive 15 meters in diameter. The church's robust stone walls and intricate architectural details are a testament to the craftsmanship of the medieval builders.
Among the church's notable features is the tomb of Jean d'Asside, a 12th-century bishop of Périgueux. This beautifully carved tomb offers a glimpse into the artistry and reverence of the period. Additionally, the church houses a stunning 17th-century oak and walnut altarpiece, originally from the Jesuit college, which adds a touch of baroque elegance to the Romanesque setting.
Music lovers will appreciate the church's two organs. The baroque organ, crafted by Carouge in the 18th century, and the choir organ by Boisseau provide a rich auditory experience, complementing the visual splendor of the church. The organs have been meticulously restored over the years, ensuring their continued use in liturgical and musical performances.
Exploring the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité is like stepping back in time. As you wander through the church, you can almost hear the echoes of centuries past. The 17th-century pulpit, with its intricate carvings, speaks of sermons delivered to the faithful, while the Stations of the Cross, signed by J.-J. Giraud, provide a meditative journey through the Passion of Christ.
One of the church's unique features is an inscribed plaque listing the dates of Easter, originally located on the south wall of the altar room. This historical artifact offers a fascinating glimpse into the liturgical calendar and the importance of Easter in the Christian tradition.
Today, the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité stands as a living monument to Périgueux's rich heritage. The extensive restoration efforts, culminating in the church's reopening in January 2021, have ensured that this architectural gem continues to inspire awe and reverence. The church's classification as a historical monument in 1840 underscores its significance and the ongoing commitment to its preservation.
Whether you are drawn to its historical significance, architectural beauty, or spiritual ambiance, the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité offers a profound and enriching experience. As you stand within its ancient walls, you become part of a continuum of history, faith, and artistry that has endured for over a millennium.
In conclusion, the Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité is more than just a church; it is a symbol of resilience, a repository of art and history, and a testament to the enduring spirit of Périgueux. A visit to this remarkable site is a journey through time, offering insights into the past and inspiration for the future.
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