Villa d'Elboeuf

Villa d'Elboeuf, nestled in the charming town of Portici, just a few kilometers southeast of Naples, is a testament to the grandeur and opulence of 18th-century aristocratic life. This once-majestic residence, now in a state of picturesque decay, offers a glimpse into a bygone era of splendor and royal indulgence. Built in the early 1700s by the French aristocrat Emmanuel Maurice de Lorraine, Prince of Elbeuf, this villa has a rich and intriguing history that continues to captivate visitors.

The Aristocratic Beginnings (1709-1742)

The story of Villa d'Elboeuf begins in 1707, during the War of the Spanish Succession, when the Austrian forces took control of Naples. Emmanuel Maurice de Lorraine, a French aristocrat serving in the Austrian army, settled in the city and soon found himself enamored with the scenic beauty of Portici. In 1709, he obtained the usufruct of part of a monastery located at the Granatello port and, by 1711, had acquired the entire property after financing the construction of a new monastery.

The construction of Villa d'Elboeuf commenced in 1711, under the guidance of architects Ferdinando Sanfelice and Cristoforo Schor. They transformed the existing conventual structure into an elongated and narrow block situated between the sea and the monastery's property. This villa was not just a residence but a treasure trove of antiquities. During its construction, in 1710, the ancient Roman city of Herculaneum was discovered, and many of its artifacts were used to adorn the villa. These antiquities were also gifted to prominent figures, such as Prince Eugene of Savoy and Louis XV, in an effort to curry favor and reverse the prince's exile.

The Royal Era (1742-1865)

According to tradition, it was during a fishing trip in 1737 that King Charles VII of Naples and his wife, Maria Amalia of Saxony, sought refuge in the villa during a sudden storm. This visit left a lasting impression on the monarch, who decided to construct the grand Royal Palace of Portici nearby. In September 1742, he acquired Villa d'Elboeuf, along with a vast collection of marble busts, columns, statues, and other ancient artifacts unearthed in Herculaneum.

The villa became an annex to the Royal Palace, connected by a bridge that spanned their gardens. It served as a maritime retreat where the king and his court could embark on boat trips to Naples. The villa also featured the peschiere reali, artificial cisterns filled with seawater, where Charles VII indulged in his passion for fishing. The entire Granatello port was declared off-limits for fishing to ensure the king's exclusive enjoyment.

During the brief French Decade, the villa saw the addition of a Doric pavilion in 1813, built for Queen Caroline Murat's bathing pleasure. Between 1814 and 1815, the villa's terrace and the peschiere reali were transformed into an English garden. However, after the Bourbon restoration in 1815, the villa gradually fell into disuse. The construction of the Naples-Portici railway in 1839 further isolated the villa from its garden, leaving it stranded by the beach.

The villa's last grand event occurred in September 1849 when Pope Pius IX disembarked there before heading to the Royal Palace of Portici, where he resided until April 1850. By 1854, King Ferdinand II and his family had shifted their interest to the neighboring Villa Favorita in Ercolano, leading to the villa's decline.

Private Ownership and Decline (1865-2019)

Following the fall of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in 1860, Villa d'Elboeuf passed into the hands of the House of Savoy. In 1865, it was sold to the Bruno family, marking the beginning of a long period of neglect and repurposing. In 1882, part of the villa was converted into a bathing establishment, complete with 24 beachside dressing rooms arranged in a semicircle. In 1927, the villa hosted King Victor Emmanuel III during his visit to the Herculaneum excavations.

From 1959, the villa underwent further transformations, becoming a hotel and apartments, with two additional floors added to the original structure. Despite being listed in the Miglio d'Oro registry of the Ente Ville Vesuviane foundation in 1971, the villa continued to deteriorate. By the mid-1990s, the last residents were evicted by municipal order, but no efforts were made to preserve the building. An unfortunate fire in 2008 and a partial collapse of a wall onto the railway line in 2014 further compounded its woes.

Today, Villa d'Elboeuf stands as a hauntingly beautiful ruin, a silent witness to centuries of history. While its grandeur has faded, the villa's story remains a compelling chapter in the rich tapestry of Portici's heritage. Visitors to this once-splendid residence can still imagine the opulent gatherings, the royal escapades, and the timeless allure that once defined Villa d'Elboeuf.