Church of São Francisco

Perched in the heart of Porto, Portugal, the Church of São Francisco (Igreja de São Francisco) is a splendid testament to the rich historical tapestry and architectural magnificence of this vibrant city. Constructed in the early 14th century, this church is a mesmerizing blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles, making it a must-visit for history buffs and architecture enthusiasts alike.

History of the Church of São Francisco

The origins of the Church of São Francisco date back to 1233 when the Franciscan friars first arrived in Porto. However, their initial settlement was fraught with challenges due to the opposition from the then Bishop of Porto, Pedro Salvadores. It wasn’t until 1245, with the intervention of Pope Innocent V through the papal bull Doelentis accepimus, that the Franciscans secured the land to build their convent and church.

The construction of the current church began in 1383 and was completed in 1410, thanks to significant popular support. Over the centuries, the church underwent several transformations, particularly in the 16th and 17th centuries when its interior was lavishly adorned with intricate woodwork, courtesy of contributions from wealthy Porto families who established their pantheons within the church.

The 19th century brought tumultuous times for the Church of São Francisco. In 1809, during the Napoleonic occupation of Portugal, the church was repurposed as a stable, causing considerable damage. The subsequent Portuguese Civil War (1828-1834) led to the destruction of the adjoining convent, leaving only the church standing. Post-war, the Franciscans were expelled from Portugal, and the site of the former convent was transformed into the present-day Palácio da Bolsa. In recognition of its historical and cultural significance, the Church of São Francisco was declared a National Monument in 1910 and was included in Porto's UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.

Architectural Marvels

The Church of São Francisco stands as a prime example of Gothic architecture in Porto, with its structure remaining largely unchanged since 1410. The church features a three-nave layout with five bays, a protruding transept, and a tripartite apse reinforced by buttresses. The main façade is distinguished by a stunning rose window divided into twelve sections by radial columns connected by arches.

The Baroque portal-retable, added in the 18th century, is a striking feature of the main façade. It consists of two tiers, the first flanked by twin Solomonic columns, and the second showcasing a niche with a statue of Saint Francis, also flanked by Solomonic columns and a bracket. The southern façade, facing the Douro River, is adorned with a cornice resting on corbels and a simple portal with three pointed archivolts decorated with Mudejar-style reliefs. The rear façade features another pentagram, framed within a small rose window, above the altar.

Inside, the church boasts a central nave that is higher than the side aisles, with a wooden coffered ceiling. The nave is composed of ten pointed arches resting on clustered columns with zoomorphic and phytomorphic capitals. The transept is well-lit, primarily by a large window on the southern side, as the northern window was obscured by the construction of the Palácio da Bolsa. The wooden ceiling of the central nave and transept dates back to 1732.

Artistic Treasures

The Church of São Francisco is a treasure trove of religious art. The oldest surviving piece is a 13th-century statue of Saint Francis of Assisi. Another significant artwork is a mural painting of Our Lady of the Rose, attributed to Antonio Florentim, dating back to the reign of King John I. This mural is one of the oldest intact paintings in Portugal and is now framed within a 1740 retable.

On the left side of the church lies the Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception or the Tree of Jesse, crafted by sculptors Antonio Gomes and Filipe da Silva between 1718 and 1721. This polychrome wood carving represents the genealogical tree of Jesus, with twelve kings of Judah connected by the branches of the tree emanating from the recumbent body of Jesse. At the top of the tree stands Joseph, beneath an image of the Virgin and Child. The niches flanking the ensemble contain statues of Saint Joachim and Saint Anne (Mary's parents), and four Franciscan doctors who wrote about the Immaculate Conception.

The church also houses several Baroque and Rococo artworks from the 1750s, including the retables of the Annunciation and the Franciscan Martyrs of Morocco. Between 1760 and 1773, additional elements were incorporated into the church, thanks to benefactors José Teixeira Guimarães and Francisco Pereira Campanha. Notable additions from this period include the retables of Saint John the Baptist in the Carneiros Chapel, and those of Our Lady of Solitude and Our Lady of the Annunciation.

The Catacombs

Beneath the Church of São Francisco lie its catacombs, constructed between 1746 and 1749 to house the secretariat and office of the Franciscan Order in Porto. Subsequent expansions in 1795 and 1802 extended the catacombs beneath the church and the Chapel of Saint Anthony. From 1749 to 1866, the catacombs served as the final resting place for the Order's benefactors and their families. Burials ceased in 1866 following the Public Health Act by Minister Costa Cabral. According to the 1751 statute, the cemetery's graves were common to all brothers, except for the senior brothers. Post-1866, the brothers were buried in a private section of the Agramonte Municipal Cemetery.

In conclusion, the Church of São Francisco in Porto is not just a place of worship; it is a living museum of art, history, and architecture. Its walls echo the stories of centuries past, offering visitors a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Porto. A visit to this magnificent church is an unforgettable journey through time, revealing the enduring legacy of the Franciscan Order and the artistic and architectural splendor of Portugal.