The Church of St. Peter St. Paul, known locally as église Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul de Rueil-Malmaison, stands as a magnificent testament to centuries of French history and architectural evolution. Nestled in the charming town of Rueil-Malmaison, just a short distance from Paris, this church is a must-visit for history enthusiasts and architecture lovers alike. Its story is deeply intertwined with significant historical figures and events, making it a fascinating destination.
The origins of the Church of St. Peter St. Paul can be traced back to the 8th century when a parish existed in Rueil. The first church on this site was constructed in the 12th century. However, the structure we see today has undergone numerous transformations over the centuries. A significant milestone in its history was the construction of the Romanesque bell tower between 1420 and 1432, during the English occupation of France. Unfortunately, much of the church was destroyed at the end of the Hundred Years' War.
In 1584, Antoine, a Portuguese pretender to the throne in exile, laid the cornerstone of the new church. The current façade, a striking feature of the church, was erected between 1632 and 1635 under the orders of Cardinal Richelieu, who resided at the nearby Château du Val. Renowned architect Jacques Lemercier, also responsible for the chapel of La Sorbonne, designed this Baroque masterpiece.
The façade of the Church of St. Peter St. Paul is a sight to behold. The statues adorning it, created by the sculptor Sarrazin, were replaced with modern versions during the 1990 restoration. These statues depict the apostles Peter and Paul, along with angels, adding a touch of divine elegance to the structure. Above the central porch, the French Revolution's legacy is evident with the inscription Liberté, égalité, fraternité – a reminder of the turbulent times the church has witnessed.
The north portal, dating back to 1603, is a Renaissance gem. It was restored by architect Joseph-Eugène Lacroix in 1857, who added the imperial arms and the initials J and H, in honor of Joséphine and Hortense. The bell tower, reconstructed in the 19th century, retains the charm of the original Romanesque design.
Stepping inside the Church of St. Peter St. Paul, visitors are greeted by a nave that stretches 40 meters in length, built around 1600. The 19th-century restoration extended the transept, creating a grander space. The vaulted ceiling, supported by 14 pillars, soars to a height of 13 meters, instilling a sense of awe and reverence.
The church's organ, a gift from Napoleon III during the 19th-century restoration, is an exquisite piece. The organ case, crafted by Florentine sculptor Baccio d'Agnolo, originally belonged to the church of Santa Maria Novella in Florence. The organ itself, built by Cavaillé-Coll, underwent a significant restoration in 2017, ensuring its majestic sound continues to fill the sacred space.
Among the church's artistic highlights is a remarkable gilded bronze bas-relief by François Anguier, depicting the Descent from the Cross. This masterpiece, created in 1667, was initially intended for the Val-de-Grâce church in Paris. Napoleon acquired it in 1805 for the chapel of the Château de Malmaison. In 1837, Swedish banker Jonas-Philip Hagerman, then owner of the château, donated it to the church.
Another notable artwork is a painting by Charles Nicolas Lafond, Jacob Dying in Egypt and Blessing His Twelve Children, rediscovered in the 2000s. These artworks add to the church's rich cultural tapestry, offering visitors a glimpse into the artistic heritage of the past centuries.
The Church of St. Peter St. Paul is perhaps most famous for housing the tombs of Joséphine and Hortense de Beauharnais. In the lateral chapels of the choir, visitors can find the tomb of Empress Joséphine, a masterpiece by architect Louis-Martin Berthault and sculptor Pierre Cartellier. Made from Carrara marble, it depicts Joséphine in a prayerful pose, reminiscent of her portrayal in David's painting of the Coronation. The epitaph À Joséphine, Eugène et Hortense 1825 is engraved on the tomb, which contains her remains in three coffins of lead, oak, and mahogany.
Adjacent to Joséphine's tomb is the mausoleum of Queen Hortense, created by Jean-Auguste Barre under Lacroix's direction. Inaugurated by Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie in 1858, the sculpture portrays Hortense kneeling with an angel by her side. Symbols of her title as Queen of Holland and her musical talents are also depicted. Although Hortense's remains rest in a crypt beneath the church, this mausoleum stands as a tribute to her legacy.
The Church of St. Peter St. Paul is not just a historical relic; it remains an active place of worship and community gathering. Over the years, it has hosted numerous significant events, from royal funerals to local ceremonies. Its designation as a historical monument in 1941 and subsequent restorations have ensured its preservation for future generations to appreciate.
Visiting the Church of St. Peter St. Paul is a journey through time, offering a unique blend of history, art, and spirituality. Whether you are drawn by its architectural beauty, its rich history, or its cultural significance, this church in Rueil-Malmaison is a destination that promises to leave a lasting impression.
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