Johanniskirche Schwäbisch Gmünd

The Johanniskirche Schwäbisch Gmünd, officially known as Nebenkirche St. Johannes Baptist, stands as a beacon of historical and architectural splendor in the heart of Schwäbisch Gmünd, Germany. This Romanesque and neo-Romanesque Catholic church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a testament to the rich cultural tapestry and religious heritage of the region. Its towering presence at the intersection of Johannisplatz and Marktplatz makes it an unmissable landmark and a favorite among photographers and history enthusiasts alike.

The Legend of Its Founding

Legend has it that the church's origins are steeped in a tale of lost and found. Agnes of Hohenstaufen, daughter of Emperor Henry IV and wife of Duke Frederick of Staufen, lost her wedding ring while hunting in the wooded Rems Valley. In her despair, she vowed to build a church at the location where the ring was found. Miraculously, the ring was discovered in the antlers of a slain deer at the site where the Johanniskirche now stands. This event is believed to have taken place around 1102, marking the beginning of the church's storied history.

Architectural Evolution

The exact date and architect of the current Romanesque Johanniskirche remain unknown, though it is speculated that two earlier structures may have preceded it. The first recorded mention of a Johanniskirche in Schwäbisch Gmünd dates back to 1225, attributed to a miracle story by Caesarius of Heisterbach. The construction period is generally placed between 1210 and 1230.

Significant architectural changes occurred in the 15th century, introducing Gothic elements such as a two-bay Gothic choir with a 5/8 apse, elevated side aisles, and intricate tracery windows on the north, south, and west sides. The new Gothic high altar was consecrated in 1429. In 1706, the church underwent further transformation with elaborate Baroque stucco work adorning the interior.

The most extensive modifications took place during the Historicist period from 1869 to 1880 under the direction of architect Hermann Steindorff. This reromanization saw the partial demolition of the Gothic choir, replaced by a neo-Romanesque one, and the lowering of the side aisles to their original height, with windows restored to their Romanesque form. The church's vibrant murals were painted by Carl Dehner in 1878/79.

Since 2008, the Johanniskirche has been undergoing phased renovations, overseen by the Münsterbauhütte, due to its status as a subsidiary church of the Heilig-Kreuz-Münster parish.

Exterior Grandeur

The Johanniskirche measures an impressive 53 meters in length, with the nave accounting for 36 meters and the choir 17 meters. The interior width ranges from 25 to 28 meters, while the bell tower reaches a height of 48 meters. The main portal on the west facade is intriguingly off-center, flanked by three round pillars on each side. The semi-circular tympanum above the portal, dating from the early 13th century, features a crucifixion scene with Christ crowned and flanked by detailed trees. Centaurs, carved from the capitals of the portal's jambs, add a mythical touch to the entrance.

The side portals are equally captivating. The southern side aisle's west facade portal depicts a seated bishop, St. Peter with the keys to heaven, and a soaring eagle, with two vigilant watchdogs on either side of the archivolt. The south facade portal of the side aisle showcases two lions with open mouths, their paws touching, and a penitent's shaven head between the blades of a pair of scissors above them.

The Towering Bell Tower

The construction date of the bell tower is also shrouded in mystery, though it is believed to have been built between 1240 and 1250, transitioning into the early Gothic period. Originally freestanding, the tower was integrated with the choir and the northern side aisle during the 19th-century reromanization. It remains the tallest structure in Schwäbisch Gmünd. The tower is divided into three sections: a square base, sloping surfaces transitioning into a rectangular shape, and an octagonal belfry crowned with a pointed spire. The arches of the belfry's sound openings hint at early Gothic influences.

Despite stabilization efforts from 1959 to 1970, the tower still leans slightly, with a deviation of nearly one meter. Since 2006, the tower has been open to the public from May to October, offering panoramic views of Schwäbisch Gmünd from the 30-meter-high watchman's chamber.

Interior Treasures

Inside the Johanniskirche, remnants of its Romanesque origins are sparse, with the interior predominantly showcasing neo-Romanesque decor. From 1870 onwards, new wall, ceiling, and glass paintings, along with a high altar, side altars, ambo, pews, west gallery, and organ, were introduced.

The side aisles serve as a public lapidarium, managed by the Münsterbauhütte, displaying sculptures replaced at the Heilig-Kreuz-Münster. Although this arrangement affects the church's spatial ambiance, plans are underway to establish a dedicated lapidarium in the form of a museum at the Münsterplatz.

Since 2005, the traditional pews have been replaced with chairs, enhancing the church's flexibility for various events.

The Staufian Pillar Madonna

The church's most prized artifact is the Staufian Pillar Madonna, a Romanesque statue dating from the late 12th century. Originally mounted on the exterior pillar at the southwest corner of the church, it was relocated indoors in 1972 for preservation, with a replica placed outside. This statue is considered the most valuable sculpture in Schwäbisch Gmünd, possibly originating from the Gothic Marienkirche, which was gradually replaced by the Heilig-Kreuz-Münster from 1310 onwards. The Madonna and Child figure is believed to be a Nikopoia, though a direct predecessor has yet to be identified. The statue was notably featured in the 2010/11 exhibition The Staufers and Italy at the Reiss-Engelhorn-Museums in Mannheim.

The Organ

The Johanniskirche's musical heritage includes a small organ, likely dating back to 1775, replaced by a new instrument crafted by local organ builder Josef Neher. This organ was later moved to the Augustinian Church following the secularization of its original organ. During the 1869-1880 renovations, a gallery was added to the west side of the nave to house a new organ, built by the Weigle company and inaugurated in 1880. This instrument, one of the few surviving mechanically operated organs from that era, suffered damage from woodworms and humidity over the years. The tin prospect pipes were requisitioned for war efforts in 1917 but were promptly replaced by the Walker organ company. A comprehensive restoration by the Klais organ manufactory from 2009 to 2012, supported by donations and the Münster organist Stephan Beck, saw the replacement of 61 pipes. While the Johanniskirche is no longer used for regular services, the organ plays a central role in cultural events, including the European Church Music Festival.

Conclusion

The Johanniskirche Schwäbisch Gmünd is more than just a church; it is a symbol of the city's historical and architectural legacy. Its walls and towers tell stories of centuries past, from legendary beginnings to Gothic transformations and neo-Romanesque revivals. Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to the Johanniskirche promises a journey through time and an appreciation of the enduring spirit of Schwäbisch Gmünd.