Tour aux Puces

In the heart of Thionville, nestled in the picturesque Moselle region of northeastern France, stands the historic and enigmatic Tour aux Puces. This intriguing edifice, whose name translates to Tower of Fleas, is a fortified structure dating back to the 12th century. The tower, once the keep of a medieval castle, now houses the municipal museum of Thionville, offering visitors a fascinating journey through time.

The Origins of the Tour aux Puces

The Tour aux Puces derives its curious name from a misinterpretation of the Francic term Pëtztuurm, which means Well Tower. The tower's original name, however, was the Mirabel Tower or the Meilbourg Tower, as referenced in documents from 1295. Over the centuries, it has also been called the Thion Tower, a name used by locals in the 19th century.

A Glimpse into History

The Tour aux Puces is the oldest monument in Thionville, with its construction estimated to have begun around the 11th or 12th century. The tower was initially part of a castle belonging to the Counts, and later the Dukes, of Luxembourg. This site was previously occupied by a Carolingian palace, which was mentioned as early as the mid-8th century and destroyed in the 10th century.

The northeast side of the tower still reveals the foundations of its original construction, dating back to around the year 1100. The tower has been partially demolished and rebuilt using stones from other demolished buildings, giving it a unique and somewhat patchwork appearance. The northern side of the tower bears the imprints of a roof, indicating that it was once attached to another building before the First World War.

This 14-sided structure rests on a circular foundation, which some believe to be the remnants of a Carolingian chapel. However, it is more likely that this foundation is contemporary with the tower's polygonal elevation. The tower served as the keep of a castle, which, according to architectural analysis, was built in the 11th or 12th century using a variety of stones, including repurposed blocks from earlier structures.

In 1292, the tower became the seat of the provost, a role it maintained until the mid-16th century. During the late 14th or early 15th century, significant renovations were made, including the addition of new buildings and modifications to the interior. These changes included the construction of a large internal wall, the addition of a fireplace, and other structural alterations.

Transformation and Restoration

Between 1542 and 1558, the Spanish undertook fortification work along the Moselle River, integrating the tower into the military domain. Further modifications were made in the second half of the 16th century, including new openings and interior changes. In 1583, the tower's ground-floor rooms were vaulted, a process that also extended to the mezzanine rooms and the two rooms on the first floor. The spiral staircase leading to the second floor and the two columns on this level are believed to date from this period.

By the 18th century, the tower was primarily used as a military prison, although many of the proposed transformations from 1733 were never realized. During the 19th century, the tower remained under military ownership and underwent restoration during the German annexation. In 1880, the tower's roof was replaced, with zinc on the Moselle side and tiles on the courtyard side. The demolition of the surrounding fortifications in 1903 highlighted the tower's architectural significance, leading to its conversion into a museum by the city in 1904.

Despite suffering significant damage during American bombings in World War II, the tower was restored and the museum reopened in 1966. Today, the Tour aux Puces stands as a testament to Thionville's rich history and resilience.

Legends and Lore

The Tour aux Puces is shrouded in legends that have captivated the imaginations of locals for generations. One such legend speaks of a secret room that has never been found. In the mid-11th century, a key vanished without a trace, and a guard claimed to have seen the thieves fleeing to Lemestroff.

Another legend attributes the tower's name to a mistranslation from Luxembourgish to French. According to this tale, a 14-year-old princess was imprisoned in the tower's dungeon, where she was consumed by thousands of ferocious fleas. Only her hair and teeth remained, which are said to have been preserved by the museum.

Exploring the Museum

Today, the Tour aux Puces houses the municipal museum of Thionville, which showcases the history of the city and its region from prehistoric times to the Renaissance. The museum's eight thematic rooms offer a captivating glimpse into the past, with collections that include archaeological finds, medieval artifacts, and Renaissance treasures.

Visitors can explore the tower's unique architecture, with its blend of stones from different eras and its intriguing polygonal design. The museum's exhibits provide insights into the lives of the people who once inhabited this historic site, from the Carolingian era to the present day.

In conclusion, the Tour aux Puces is not just a monument; it is a symbol of Thionville's enduring history and cultural heritage. Its walls echo with stories of the past, inviting visitors to step back in time and discover the rich tapestry of events that have shaped this remarkable region. Whether you are a history enthusiast or a casual traveler, a visit to the Tour aux Puces is an unforgettable journey through the ages.