Scolanova Synagogue

In the heart of Trani, a picturesque coastal town in southern Italy's Apulia region, lies the Scolanova Synagogue, a site steeped in history and cultural significance. Known locally as Santa Maria in Scolanova, this ancient building offers a fascinating glimpse into the medieval Jewish community that once thrived here. With its remarkable history, unique architecture, and the poignant story of its re-consecration, the Scolanova Synagogue is a must-visit for anyone exploring Trani's rich heritage.

The History of Scolanova Synagogue

The Scolanova Synagogue dates back to the 13th century, a period when the Jewish community in Trani flourished under the reign of Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen. In 1231, Frederick II granted the Jews of Trani a monopoly on the production of raw silk, allowing the community to prosper. The synagogue, along with three others in Trani, was constructed during this time, with the Scolanova being completed in 1247.

However, the peaceful coexistence of Trani's Jewish community was disrupted in the late 14th century by a wave of antisemitism. In the 1380s, the synagogue was confiscated by the Catholic Church and converted into a church, taking on the name Santa Maria in Scolanova. This marked the beginning of a long period during which the building served Christian worshippers.

Fast forward to the 16th century, the expulsion of Jews from Spanish-ruled territories in Italy led to the forced conversion of the remaining Jews in Trani. The synagogues, including the Scolanova, were transformed into churches, and the Jewish community was scattered.

Remarkably, in 2006, the Catholic Church agreed to deconsecrate Santa Maria in Scolanova and return it to the Jewish community, making it the oldest active synagogue in Europe today. This momentous event was largely spearheaded by Professor Francesco Lotoro and his wife, descendants of Italian Anoussim (Jews forcibly converted to Christianity). The synagogue was re-consecrated, and once again, it serves as a place of worship for the Jewish community in Apulia.

Architectural Marvels

The Scolanova Synagogue is a testament to medieval Gothic architecture. The building is a rectangular structure measuring 15 meters in length and 6.5 meters in width, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling reaching a height of 11 meters. The stone walls, punctuated by three windows, create a serene and contemplative atmosphere inside.

One of the most striking features of the synagogue is the stone frame that once surrounded the Ark, where the Torah scrolls were kept. This frame, along with the seven steps leading up to it, has been preserved over the centuries. The central column dividing the two arched openings of the Ark adds to the architectural elegance of the space.

Adjacent to the main building, a separate structure once housed the women's gallery. This area, along with the medieval mikveh (ritual bath) located in the basement, has been preserved, offering visitors a glimpse into the daily religious practices of Trani's medieval Jewish community.

A Symbol of Resilience

The Scolanova Synagogue stands as a symbol of resilience and continuity for the Jewish community in Trani. Despite the challenges and upheavals of the past, the synagogue has been restored to its original purpose, serving as a place of worship and community gathering.

One poignant reminder of the building's complex history is the oil painting of the Virgin Mary that remains in the niche where the Ark once stood. The Catholic Church has not permitted the removal of this painting, so the Jewish community has covered it with a large image of a Menorah, symbolizing the synagogue's return to its original faith.

Above the entrance, the synagogue's bell tower now features a Star of David, a clear sign of its Jewish identity. This blend of historical elements and modern symbols creates a unique and evocative atmosphere.

Visiting the Scolanova Synagogue

Today, the Scolanova Synagogue serves the Jewish communities of Apulia, including those in Bari and Lecce. It is a place where descendants of Neofiti (crypto-Jews) and Jews from San Nicandro come together to celebrate major holidays and Shabbat services.

Visitors to the Scolanova Synagogue can explore its rich history and architectural features, gaining insights into the lives of the medieval Jewish community in Trani. The synagogue's location in the charming old town of Trani, with its narrow streets and historic buildings, adds to the allure of this remarkable site.

In conclusion, the Scolanova Synagogue is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of Trani's Jewish community. Its walls echo with stories of resilience, faith, and cultural continuity, making it an essential stop for anyone interested in the rich tapestry of Apulia's history.