Church of San Pablo, Valladolid

Standing majestically in the heart of Valladolid, Spain, the Church of San Pablo, locally known as Iglesia de San Pablo, is a breathtaking testament to Gothic architecture and historical grandeur. This iconic church, founded by the Dominicans, is one of the most representative temples of the city and a beacon of the Isabelline Gothic style that flourished during the reign of the Catholic Monarchs.

The History of the Church of San Pablo

The origins of the Church of San Pablo can be traced back to 1260 when Queen Violant of Aragon, the wife of Alfonso X the Wise, initiated the establishment of residences for Franciscans and Dominicans. The convent of San Pablo in Valladolid was officially founded in 1276 by Queen Violant of Aragon in honor of the Order of Saint Paul the First Hermit, which was established in Hungary in 1250.

The construction of the current church began in earnest in 1463, funded by Cardinal Juan de Torquemada, who received loans from Pope Pius II for the project. This new structure replaced an earlier mendicant church with a wooden roof. Under Torquemada's patronage, the head, transept, and nave were completed. However, it was after his death that the church saw significant contributions from Bishop Alonso de Burgos, who financed the cloister, refectory, lower part of the façade, and the transept portals.

In the early 17th century, the Duke of Lerma, a favorite of King Philip III, became the patron of the church. He funded the renovation of the main façade and adorned the church with numerous artworks, including Fra Angelico's Annunciation, now housed in the Prado Museum in Madrid. The church was expanded in a classicist style and adapted for funerary use under the architect Diego de Praves.

The church's history is marked by significant events, including the baptism of King Philip IV and Philip II. The latter's legend tells of his birth in the nearby Pimentel Palace and his subsequent baptism in the Church of San Pablo through a window to avoid being baptized in the neighboring Church of San Martin.

The 19th century brought turmoil as Napoleonic troops desecrated the church and convent, causing severe damage. The progressive ruin of the complex and various secularization processes, especially the 1835 confiscation, led to the conversion of the convent into a prison, leaving only the church standing. The 20th century saw the church suffer a fire and undergo several restorations, with a comprehensive restoration taking place in the early 21st century.

The Façade: A Masterpiece of Gothic and Renaissance Art

The façade of the Church of San Pablo is a stunning blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements, divided into two distinct parts based on their construction dates. The lower part, completed around 1500, reaches up to the impost above the central rose window and is crowned by a Renaissance pediment. This section, designed by the Burgos architect Simón de Colonia, is an exaltation of the Dominican order and the Catholic Monarchs.

The upper part, constructed between 1601 and 1606 by Francisco de Sandoval y Rojas, Duke of Lerma, was a result of raising the nave's vaults. This elevation necessitated the addition of two lateral buttresses topped with bell towers, giving the appearance of towers. The Duke also replaced all emblems of Fra Alonso de Burgos with his own, marked by stars, and added twelve pillars with lions and a cross from the Church of Santiago.

Exploring the Façade

The lower part of the façade features a conical arch portal adorned with sculptures. The jambs and archivolts are richly decorated with figures, including mutilated statues of saints such as Saint Margaret, Mary Magdalene, Saint Catherine, and a Dominican saint, possibly Saint Catherine of Siena. The archivolts also include sculptures of playful children, fantastical animals, and angels playing musical instruments.

Flanking the portal are large statues of Dominican saints, including Saint Peter Martyr, Saint Dominic, Saint Thomas Aquinas, and Saint Vincent Ferrer, along with smaller statues of unidentified saints. Above the portal, under a grand canopy, is the Coronation of the Virgin by the Holy Trinity, surrounded by a choir of angels and accompanied by kneeling figures of Fra Alonso de Burgos and Saint John the Baptist.

The upper part of the façade, added in the early 17th century, features a rose window surrounded by fewer sculptures. Underneath the rose window are seated figures of God the Father, Saint Peter, and Saint Paul. The pinnacles on either side of the façade are adorned with multiple levels of statues, including apostles, prophets, and allegorical figures.

Visiting the Church of San Pablo

A visit to the Church of San Pablo is a journey through centuries of history, art, and architecture. As you stand before its grand façade, you are transported to a time when the church was a center of religious and political power. Inside, the church's single nave, high choir, and Gothic ribbed vaults create a serene and awe-inspiring atmosphere.

The Church of San Pablo is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the rich cultural and religious heritage of Valladolid. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a casual tourist, the Church of San Pablo offers a unique and unforgettable experience.