In the heart of the charming city of Vic, nestled near the ancient city walls, stands the Església i Convent del Carme, a stunning example of Baroque architecture that whispers tales of history and spirituality. This remarkable site, protected as a Cultural Asset of Local Interest, invites visitors into a world where art, history, and devotion intertwine seamlessly.
The church's façade is a masterpiece of basilical design, adorned with three prominent pinnacles that draw the eyes heavenward. At its center, a grand arched portal beckons, flanked by elegant columns that support a lobed architrave. Above, a niche holds a serene statue, capturing the essence of the sacred. Circular oculi and ornate windows punctuate the façade, adding layers of light and shadow that change with the sun's journey across the sky.
Inside, the church reveals a single nave with lateral chapels, each a sanctuary of peace and reflection. The nave is crowned by a barrel vault, its decorative elements marking the transitions between chapels. At the far end, the apse is graced by a dome, beneath which lies a cambril dedicated to the Virgin of Carmel. Flanked by stately columns and crowned with a cornice, this sacred space invites contemplation and reverence. The walls, with their vibrant polychromy, tell stories through color and form, creating an atmosphere of warmth and devotion.
The story of this church begins in the 14th century when Carmelite friars established a convent near the boundary of Gurb. Initially housed in a transformed chapel, the community's spiritual journey led to the construction of a new church. Originally featuring a wooden-vaulted nave and a polygonal apse with an ogival vault, this sacred space was dedicated to the Virgin of Carmel.
The Baroque church that stands today began its journey in 1588, under the guidance of the Brotherhood of Hatters. Dedicated to the Virgin of Roder and Saint James, the church witnessed several phases of construction. It was in the 18th century, following the War of Spanish Succession, that the church truly flourished. The nave was expanded with lateral chapels and covered with a brick vault, reminiscent of the Church of La Pietat. The visionary design is believed to be the work of Friar Josep de la Concepció.
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Adjacent to the church, the convent's former quarters embrace a serene cloister. This quadrangular space is adorned with seven semi-circular arches on each side, resting gracefully on columns with bulbous shafts and simple capitals. Above the arcades, two stories of rectangular openings invite light and air into this tranquil haven.
On the southern side of the first floor, a decorated lintel portal leads to an abandoned chapel, its ceiling covered by a quadripartite vault. This space, once a school until 1988, now serves cultural purposes, breathing new life into its historic walls.
Within the rehabilitated convent, the Museum of Leather Art finds its home. Founded in 1996, this museum is dedicated to the decorative arts of leather, offering a unique glimpse into this ancient craft. As the first museum of its kind in Spain and one of Europe's foremost, it stands as a testament to the city's rich cultural heritage. Visitors can access this treasure trove through Carrer Arquebisbe Alemany, 5, in Vic.
The church is also the final resting place of the humanist and scholar Llucià Gallissà i Costa, whose legacy endures in the annals of Vic's history. His tomb lies within the family vault of the Ponsic family, a silent witness to the passage of time and the enduring spirit of knowledge.
The CRAI Biblioteca de Reserva of the University of Barcelona preserves various works from the convent's collection, a legacy of the convent's dissolution in 1835. These artifacts, marked with the convent's historical insignia, offer a glimpse into the intellectual and spiritual pursuits that once thrived within these walls.
In conclusion, the Església i Convent del Carme is not merely a historical monument; it is a living testament to the rich tapestry of Vic's cultural and spiritual heritage. Its walls echo with stories of devotion, artistry, and resilience, inviting all who enter to embark on a journey through time and faith. A visit to this enchanting site is a must for anyone seeking to uncover the hidden gems of this beautiful city.
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