St. Mary's Church, known locally as Benediktinski samostan sv. Marije u Zadru, is a captivating gem nestled in the heart of Zadar, Croatia. This historical site, with its rich past and stunning architecture, offers a glimpse into the medieval and Renaissance periods of this enchanting coastal city. As you wander through its ancient halls, you can almost hear the echoes of history whispering tales of nobility, faith, and artistry.
Founded in 1066 by the noblewoman Čika, sister to King Petar Krešimir IV, St. Mary's Church began as a Benedictine monastery. This establishment was not only a religious sanctuary but also a symbol of royal prestige and influence. Čika, upon entering the convent as a nun, brought with her precious manuscripts, including two hymnals and a breviary. Although the hymnals have been lost to time, the breviary remains preserved in the Bodleian Library in Oxford, offering a window into the literary and musical culture of the era.
Čika's daughter, Vekenega, followed in her mother's footsteps, joining the convent around 1072 after the tragic death of her husband. As abbess, Vekenega skillfully navigated the political landscape of late 11th-century Croatia. She secured financial support from King Coloman for the completion of the church's three-nave basilica in 1091 and the construction of new monastic buildings. Her efforts also led to the erection of a magnificent Romanesque bell tower, completed in 1105, which still stands as a testament to her legacy.
The architecture of St. Mary's Church is a harmonious blend of Romanesque and Renaissance styles. In 1507, the church's façade and southern wall were redesigned by Nikola Španić, incorporating Renaissance elements into the structure. Inside, visitors can marvel at the opulent Baroque stucco work added in 1744, which enhances the church's grandeur.
During World War II, both the church and monastery suffered significant damage from Anglo-American bombing raids. However, the post-war restoration efforts have revived the church's former glory. The altar, bearing inscriptions of Čika and King Petar Krešimir IV, and the Pietà statue from the 15th century are among the treasures that have been preserved and restored.
One of the highlights of visiting St. Mary's Church is the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, known as The Gold and Silver of Zadar. Established in 1967, this collection features around 200 exquisite items, including stone sculptures, paintings, woodcarvings, and intricate goldsmith works. Noteworthy exhibits include a 7th/8th-century reliquary cross, mistakenly referred to as Čika's cross, and silver reliquaries adorned with gemstones dating back to the 12th century.
The exhibition also showcases reliquaries shaped like hands and busts, with the oldest pieces originating from the 14th century. These relics, alongside numerous crosses and icons from the 13th century, offer a fascinating insight into the religious and artistic heritage of Zadar. Gothic sculptures and paintings by masters such as Vittore Carpaccio and Palma the Younger further enrich the collection.
As you explore St. Mary's Church, you embark on a journey through time, witnessing the evolution of art and architecture from the Romanesque period to the Baroque era. The church's serene ambiance, coupled with its historical significance, makes it a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Zadar.
The nuns of St. Mary's continue to play a vital role in preserving the church's history and treasures. Their dedication ensures that the legacy of Čika, Vekenega, and the countless individuals who contributed to this sacred site remains alive for future generations to appreciate.
In conclusion, St. Mary's Church is not just a place of worship; it is a living museum that tells the story of Zadar's past. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, yet they stand resilient, inviting visitors to explore and discover the rich tapestry of history woven into their very fabric. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply a curious traveler, St. Mary's Church offers an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of its beauty and heritage.
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