In the heart of Aarschot, Belgium, stands a majestic testament to Gothic architecture and religious history: the Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk). This awe-inspiring structure, built from brown iron sandstone, is a prime example of Demer Gothic, a regional variation of Brabantine High Gothic. Its towering presence and intricate details make it a must-visit for anyone interested in history, architecture, or simply looking for a serene place to reflect.
The Church of Our Lady is not just a building; it’s a journey through time encapsulated in stone and glass. The basilica-style structure features a towering West Tower with a Renaissance spire that reaches an impressive height of 84 or 85 meters. This tower is flanked by two stair towers and two chapels, creating a symmetrical and visually striking façade.
As you step inside, you are immediately enveloped by the grandeur of a three-aisled nave, which dates back to the early 15th century. The nave leads to a transept and a choir with a high polygonal apse from the 14th century. The lower part of the tower is particularly notable for its alternating layers of iron sandstone and limestone, known as bacon layers, which add a unique texture and color to the structure. The clerestory is supported by open flying buttresses, a hallmark of Gothic architecture that allows for large, stained glass windows to bathe the interior in a kaleidoscope of light.
The interior of the Church of Our Lady is a treasure trove of artistic and architectural marvels. The nave houses a pulpit and confessionals crafted in the Flemish Baroque style, dating back to the 17th century. These pieces are adorned with intricate carvings and gilded details that reflect the opulence of the Baroque period.
One of the most striking features inside the church is the rood screen, an extravagant example of late Gothic design. This ornate screen, which separates the choir from the nave, is adorned with scenes depicting the Passion and Resurrection of Christ. Above the rood screen hangs a triumphal cross from the 15th century, adding to the spiritual and historical significance of the space.
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ToursThe choir of the Church of Our Lady is a hidden gem, concealed behind the rood screen. The choir stalls, dating from 1515, are a fascinating blend of artistry and satire. The misericords—small wooden ledges used for support during long periods of standing—are carved with satirical and sometimes risqué scenes. These include depictions of Aristotle being ridden like a horse, a naked woman riding a monkey, and a man defecating on the world. Despite their crude themes, the carvings are masterfully executed and offer a glimpse into the humor and social commentary of the time.
Another highlight of the choir is the wrought-iron chandelier, attributed to Quentin Massys and dating back to 1500. This intricate piece adds a touch of elegance and historical depth to the already rich interior. On the right side of the apse, you’ll find a 16th-century depiction of the Throne of Grace, while the left wall of the choir features a five-meter-wide painting of Christ in the winepress, dating from 1520-1530.
The Church of Our Lady is home to numerous works of art that span centuries. In a chapel on the right side of the ambulatory, you can admire a painting by Pieter Jozef Verhaghen (1728-1811) depicting the Supper at Emmaus. This piece, along with many others, showcases the church’s rich collection of religious art.
The stained glass windows, originally installed in 1520 and depicting Wilhelm II de Croÿ and Maria von Hamal, were sold in 1833 and now reside in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Despite this loss, the church still boasts beautiful stained glass that adds to its ethereal atmosphere.
The church’s organ, built by Jan Bremser in 1646, is a historic instrument that was returned to the Church of Our Lady from the Joseph College after the original main organ became irreparable. Following a restoration by the Lapon company in 2012, the organ now features 21 stops on two manuals, continuing to fill the church with its majestic sound.
In a poignant tribute to peace, a carillon with 51 bells was installed in the Marian Tower (West Tower) on November 11, 2018, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of World War I. This carillon includes two historic bells from Sergeys of Leuven and 49 new bells from the Eijsbouts bell foundry in Asten, creating a harmonious blend of history and modern craftsmanship.
In conclusion, the Church of Our Lady in Aarschot is not just a place of worship; it’s a living museum of art, history, and architecture. Whether you are an aficionado of Gothic design, a lover of Baroque art, or simply a curious traveler, this church offers a rich and rewarding experience that will leave you in awe of its beauty and history.
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