Palazzo Alfieri (Asti)

Palazzo Alfieri, a gem of baroque architecture nestled in the heart of Asti, Italy, is a must-visit for anyone keen on exploring the rich tapestry of Italian history and culture. This magnificent building, located on Corso Alfieri in the Rione Cattedrale, is not just an architectural marvel but also the birthplace of the renowned poet Vittorio Alfieri. Its historical significance and stunning design make it a captivating destination for tourists and history enthusiasts alike.

The History of Palazzo Alfieri

The origins of Palazzo Alfieri date back to medieval times, with the property coming into the possession of the Alfieri family towards the end of the 17th century, as documented by a notarial deed from 1696. However, some historical records suggest that the family may have owned the property as early as the beginning of the 17th century. The building we see today underwent significant transformation in 1736 under the direction of architect Benedetto Alfieri, who redesigned it into the splendid baroque palace that stands today.

In the 19th century, the palace came into the hands of the Colli di Felizzano family through marriage. The last vestiges of its medieval origins were removed in the early 20th century when the building was converted into a museum and the Civic Library was constructed by Count Leonetto Ottolenghi. The eastern wing of the palace, which once boasted a salon with a coffered ceiling adorned with 17th-century heraldic friezes, was part of these renovations. Additionally, rustic service buildings facing Piazza Cairoli were demolished to create the western facade, mirroring the architectural style of the main facade.

Count Ottolenghi eventually donated the palace to the Municipality of Asti, which undertook further modifications in 1923, 1939, 1949, and 1958. These included the restoration of two rooms on the noble floor and the installation of a bust of Vittorio Alfieri in the courtyard.

The Architectural Splendor of Palazzo Alfieri

Architecturally, Palazzo Alfieri shares similarities with another Alfieri masterpiece, Palazzo Ottolenghi. The building presents itself as a grand parallelepiped extending approximately fifty meters along Corso Alfieri. The facade is imposing, featuring a series of noble floor windows interrupted by a central section that projects forward, housing the main entrance flanked by rusticated pilasters. Above the entrance, a concave balcony with an arched window and a voluted pediment adds to the grandeur.

Inside, a central atrium leads symmetrically to the right, where a grand staircase ascends to a transverse wing, and to the left, where the main wing of the palace stretches twenty-two meters. Beyond the atrium lies a trapezoidal courtyard, a strikingly scenic space with converging side walls leading to a concave central backdrop, enhancing the architectural drama. Two small doors off the courtyard lead to the transverse wing and the garden, respectively.

The noble floor houses the apartments and the birth chamber of Vittorio Alfieri, who lived here until the age of five. The basement of the palace includes a kitchen, a wine cellar, and four other cellars, one of which was known as the white wine cellar.

The Alfieri Museum

The Alfieri Museum, reopened in 2016 after a two-decade-long renovation, occupies ten rooms on the noble floor, preserving the original furnishings, including the poet's apartment and birth chamber. The museum boasts a collection of around eighty engravings and lithographs from the 18th and 19th centuries, many derived from the famous portraits by Fabre and originating from the Giovanni Montersino collection.

The museum also showcases costumes, sketches, and theatrical documents related to Alfieri's works, along with various memorabilia and curiosities, such as a lock of the poet's hair and personal items cherished by his beloved, the Countess of Albany. Among the paintings on display are a portrait of Vittorio Alfieri, gifted by the poet to his sister Giulia and painted by François-Xavier Fabre in 1797, considered one of the most accurate depictions of Alfieri.

Other notable artworks include a portrait of Marianna Monica Maillard di Tournon, Alfieri's mother, and a portrait of Giulia Alfieri, both by unknown artists. In the salon, visitors can admire a portrait of the Countess of Albany, a copy by Edouard Marsal of Fabre's 1796 original, and a painting of Oedipus by Fabre, created in Florence in 1817, which also features the Countess's dog, Pyrrhus. This painting was exhibited at the Paris Salon in 1827.

Restorations and Modern-Day Significance

Palazzo Alfieri closed in 1996 for essential restoration work, which was expected to be completed by 2011 but was only partially finished by 2016. Today, the palace stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Asti and continues to draw visitors from around the world.

In conclusion, a visit to Palazzo Alfieri is not just a journey through the opulent halls of a baroque palace but also a dive into the life and times of one of Italy's most celebrated poets. Its walls echo with the stories of the past, offering a unique glimpse into the history and culture of this beautiful region. Whether you are an architecture aficionado, a history buff, or a literary enthusiast, Palazzo Alfieri promises an enriching and unforgettable experience.