Cathedral of San Sabino

In the heart of Bari, Italy, stands the magnificent Cathedral of San Sabino, known locally as Cattedrale di San Sabino. This architectural gem, blending history and spirituality, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the Apulia region. The cathedral is not just a place of worship but a testament to the resilience and artistic heritage of Bari.

The Historical Tapestry of the Cathedral of San Sabino

The Cathedral of San Sabino has a storied past that dates back to the early Christian era. The site originally housed an ancient episcopal church around the 6th century, evidenced by the remnants found beneath the central nave. This early structure was succeeded by a Byzantine cathedral, which met its demise in 1156 at the hands of William I of Sicily, known as William the Bad. The current Romanesque structure, commissioned by Archbishop Rainaldo, was constructed between the 12th and 13th centuries using materials from the destroyed Byzantine cathedral and other ruins.

The cathedral was consecrated on October 4, 1292, and its design is heavily inspired by the nearby Basilica of San Nicola. Over the centuries, the Cathedral of San Sabino has undergone numerous renovations, including Baroque modifications in the 18th century by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. However, a significant restoration in the 1950s returned much of the interior to its Romanesque origins, stripping away the Baroque additions to reveal the cathedral's austere beauty.

Architectural Marvels of the Exterior

The Cathedral of San Sabino is an exemplary model of Apulian Romanesque architecture. Its façade is divided into three sections by two pilasters, mirroring the internal nave structure. The central section features a grand rose window, framed by a semicircular cornice adorned with seven grotesque figures. This rose window, originally Gothic, was largely restored in later years. Below, a series of Baroque portals incorporate elements from the original 11th-century doors.

The left flank of the cathedral is notable for its deep arcades and reconstructed hexaphoral galleries. The cylindrical structure known as the Trulla, originally a baptistery and now a sacristy, dominates the right flank. The rear of the cathedral, featuring three pairs of blind arches and a central rose window, is equally impressive. The elegant bell tower, standing at nearly 69 meters, is a striking feature with its series of biforas, triforas, and quadriforas, capped with a restored spire.

Stepping Inside the Cathedral

Upon entering the Cathedral of San Sabino, visitors are greeted by a solemn and majestic interior. The cathedral's three naves are separated by two rows of slender columns, likely sourced from the Byzantine structure. Above the arches, false matronea with large triforas and stucco capitals add to the grandeur. The central nave's floor features remnants of polychrome marble from the 14th century, including a rose design echoing the façade's rose window.

The transept, elevated and demarcated by 13th-century plutei imitating oriental fabrics, houses the presbytery. Here, two Romanesque lions flank the steps leading to the altar. The dome, soaring 35 meters above the presbytery, rests on an octagonal drum with windows, creating a luminous and airy space. The ciborium, an original work by Alfano da Termoli from 1233, has been meticulously reconstructed, showcasing intricate floral and geometric carvings.

The Crypt and Sacred Artifacts

Beneath the cathedral lies the crypt, transformed in the 18th century. This rectangular, apsidal space is supported by 24 columns and houses the revered Byzantine icon of the Virgin Odegitria, Bari's primary patron alongside Saint Nicholas. According to tradition, the remains of Saint Sabinus, the cathedral's namesake and a bishop of Canosa, are also interred here.

The right sacristy contains an altar with a painting believed to depict Saint Maurus, considered Bari's first bishop. The side aisles feature bronze Stations of the Cross by the sculptor Francesco Nagni, adding a modern artistic touch to the ancient cathedral.

The Diocesan Museum and the Exsultet

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Diocesan Museum, home to the Exsultet, a precious Byzantine-inspired parchment predating 1050. This illuminated manuscript, with images inverted relative to the text, allowed the congregation to view the sacred illustrations as the deacon read the Easter proclamation from the ambo.

A Phenomenon of Light

One of the most enchanting features of the Cathedral of San Sabino is a phenomenon discovered during the 2002 restoration. During the summer solstice, sunlight passing through the rose window aligns perfectly with a mosaic on the central nave's floor, creating a stunning interplay of light and shadow that mirrors the window's design.

The Cathedral of San Sabino is not merely an architectural wonder; it is a living chronicle of Bari's spiritual and cultural journey. Its walls, steeped in history, continue to resonate with the prayers and aspirations of countless generations, making it a profound and inspiring destination for all who visit.