Old Cathedral of Coimbra

The Old Cathedral of Coimbra, locally known as Sé Velha de Coimbra, is a remarkable testament to the rich history and architectural grandeur of Portugal. Nestled in the heart of Coimbra, this ancient cathedral stands as a proud symbol of the country's Romanesque heritage and offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the past.

The Historical Tapestry

The Old Cathedral of Coimbra's roots stretch back to the mid-12th century, a time when King Afonso Henriques had just declared himself the first King of Portugal following the Battle of Ourique in 1139. Recognizing the need for a grand ecclesiastical structure to match the newfound status of Coimbra as the capital of the kingdom, the construction of the cathedral began shortly thereafter. The initial phases of construction were likely overseen by Bishop Bernardo, with significant progress made under Bishop Miguel Salomão in 1162.

By 1182, the cathedral had advanced sufficiently to become the final resting place of Bishop Bernudos, and in 1185, it witnessed the coronation of Portugal's second king, Sancho I. The main construction work wrapped up in the early 13th century, with the subsequent addition of the cloister around 1218. The architectural design is attributed to Master Roberto, possibly of French origin, who also directed the construction of the Lisbon Cathedral during the same period.

Architectural Marvels

The Old Cathedral of Coimbra is a quintessential example of Romanesque architecture, characterized by its fortress-like appearance with high, crenellated walls and narrow windows. This design was not merely aesthetic; it reflected the tumultuous period of the Reconquista, when fortification was a necessity. The west façade, the primary entrance, features a central tower-like structure with a portal adorned with multiple archivolts and a large window above, both richly decorated with Romanesque motifs influenced by Arab and pre-Romanesque styles.

The north façade is home to two Renaissance-style portals, with the Porta Especiosa standing out as a three-story, retable-like structure crafted by João de Ruão in the 1530s. This portal is one of the early masterpieces of the Portuguese Renaissance. The east side of the cathedral showcases the main Romanesque apse and two smaller apsidioles, with the southern one having been modified in the Renaissance style. Atop the transept sits a square Romanesque lantern tower, which underwent some alterations in the 18th century.

Interior Splendor

Stepping inside, visitors are greeted by a three-nave layout with five bays, a shallow transept, and a chancel composed of an apse and two apsidioles. The central nave is covered by a barrel vault, while the side naves feature groin vaults. The main nave's upper level boasts an elegant triforium, a gallery with arcades. The columns throughout the interior are adorned with capitals intricately carved with geometric, vegetal, and animal motifs.

The primary sources of natural light within the cathedral are the windows in the lantern tower and the large window on the west façade. The cloister, built during the reign of Afonso II, marks the transition to Gothic architecture. Each side of the cloister features five pointed arches, each containing a pair of perfect round arches, with simple tracery rosettes in between. The most intriguing aspect of the cloister is the unique way the Gothic arcades intersect at the corners, creating a distinctive visual effect.

Artistic Treasures

The Old Cathedral of Coimbra is also a treasure trove of Romanesque sculpture, boasting around 380 carved capitals. These feature a variety of motifs, including geometric and vegetal patterns with Arab and pre-Romanesque influences, as well as depictions of quadrupeds and birds. Notably absent are human figures and biblical scenes, possibly due to the influence of Mozarabic artists who had settled in Coimbra in the 12th century.

From the Gothic period, several tombs with recumbent statues can be found along the side naves. One of the most striking is the tomb of D. Vataça Láscaris, a Byzantine noblewoman who accompanied Queen Isabel of Aragon to Portugal in the early 14th century. The tomb, attributed to the workshop of Master Pero, features the emblem of the Byzantine Empire: the double-headed eagle.

In the late 15th and early 16th centuries, Bishop Jorge de Almeida initiated a significant decorative campaign. The pillars and walls were covered with colorful Hispano-Moorish tiles from Seville, some of which still remain today. The main altar, crafted between 1498 and 1502 by Flemish sculptors Olivier de Gand and Jean d'Ypres, is a stunning Gothic masterpiece depicting scenes from the lives of the Virgin Mary and Jesus.

Renaissance Additions

The northern apsidiole houses a Renaissance altar by Nicolau de Chanterenne, while the southern apsidiole was completely rebuilt in the Renaissance style around 1566, featuring a magnificent stone retable by João de Ruão depicting Jesus and the apostles. Ruão also constructed the Porta Especiosa on the north façade in the 1530s.

In the transept, visitors can find a Gothic-Renaissance baptismal font created by Diogo Pires the Younger around 1520-40, originally from the Church of São João de Almedina. The Manueline baptismal font of the Old Cathedral is now housed in the New Cathedral of Coimbra, the former Jesuit church.

In conclusion, the Old Cathedral of Coimbra is not just an architectural marvel but also a repository of centuries of art and history. Its walls, sculptures, and decorations tell the story of a city and a nation, making it an essential destination for anyone visiting Coimbra. Whether you are an architecture aficionado, a history enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, the Old Cathedral of Coimbra promises a journey through time that you will not soon forget.