Old Synagogue (Erfurt)

Erfurt, the charming capital of Thuringia in Germany, is home to a remarkable historical gem: the Old Synagogue. Known locally as Alte Synagoge, this ancient structure stands as a testament to the rich and turbulent history of the Jewish community in Central Europe. With its origins tracing back to the 11th century, the Old Synagogue is not only the oldest synagogue in Europe but also a captivating museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the medieval Jewish life and culture.

The History of the Old Synagogue

The Old Synagogue's history dates back to 1094 when it was constructed in the Romanesque style by the thriving Jewish community of Erfurt. Situated on the via Regia, one of the major European trade routes connecting Kiev to Santiago de Compostela, the synagogue quickly became a central hub for the local Jewish populace. Over the centuries, the building underwent several renovations and expansions to accommodate the growing community, particularly during the 13th and 14th centuries.

One of the significant alterations occurred in 1270 when five pointed-arch windows and a small rose window were added to the western façade, giving the synagogue its distinctive medieval appearance. Interestingly, the original floor of the synagogue was below street level, reflecting the humility imposed on Jews at the time, requiring them to descend a few steps to enter their place of worship.

However, the prosperity of the Jewish community was abruptly halted in 1349 during the Black Death. The Jews were falsely accused of causing the plague, leading to widespread persecution and the tragic Massacre of Erfurt. The synagogue was desecrated, looted, and eventually sold, marking the end of its use as a place of worship.

Transformation Through the Ages

Following the massacre, the Old Synagogue was repurposed as a storage warehouse in 1350. Its prayer hall was divided into multiple floors, and the windows were minimized to accommodate storage levels. The bimah (a raised platform for reading the Torah) and the Torah ark were destroyed, and the grand doors were broken down. This transformation lasted for nearly 500 years, during which the synagogue's original purpose was all but forgotten.

In the late 19th century, the building underwent another metamorphosis, this time into a venue for entertainment. It housed a ballroom, a restaurant, and later even two bowling alleys. The top floor was replaced with a circular gallery, and the interior was adorned with semi-nude stucco caryatids, further obscuring its historical identity. Remarkably, these modifications may have inadvertently protected the synagogue from destruction during the Third Reich, as its Jewish origins were not immediately apparent.

Rediscovery and Restoration

Interest in the Old Synagogue was rekindled in the late 1980s when the Independent Institute for Building Research and Documentation (IBD) began investigating the structure. In 1992, construction historian Elmar Altwasser discovered that much of the original synagogue remained intact and of exceptional quality. Despite its use as a warehouse and ballroom, the building faced the risk of collapse due to decades of neglect.

In 1998, after extensive negotiations, the city of Erfurt purchased the synagogue, recognizing its unique historical value. Comprehensive research and restoration efforts followed, culminating in 2009 when the synagogue was transformed into a museum. The restoration aimed to preserve all traces of the building's varied uses, from its medieval origins to its later adaptations, allowing visitors to witness the layers of history embedded within its walls.

The Old Synagogue Museum

Today, the Old Synagogue serves as a museum that showcases the rich history and culture of Erfurt's medieval Jewish community. One of the museum's highlights is the Erfurt Treasure, discovered in 1998. This remarkable find, hidden in a wall on Michaelisstraße 43, includes precious objects such as gold and silver coins, jewelry, and religious artifacts, believed to have been concealed by Jews before the 1349 pogrom.

The museum also houses an extensive collection of Jewish manuscripts, including facsimiles and religious texts from the 12th to the 14th centuries. Among these is the oldest surviving manuscript of the Tosefta, dating back to the 12th century, which was recovered from the library of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Erfurt in 1879.

The Mikveh and the Jewish Heritage

Adjacent to the Old Synagogue, visitors can explore the medieval mikveh, a Jewish ritual bath dating back to 1248-1249. This well-preserved structure was discovered in 2007 and is accessible through guided tours. The mikveh, located near the Krämerbrücke (Merchants' Bridge), offers a fascinating glimpse into the religious practices of the medieval Jewish community.

In addition to the Old Synagogue and the mikveh, Erfurt's Jewish heritage includes several medieval stone houses that once belonged to Jewish residents. These buildings, along with the Erfurt Treasure and historical documents, form a unique and invaluable testimony to the vibrant Jewish life that flourished in Erfurt from the late 11th to the mid-14th centuries.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site

In recognition of its historical and cultural significance, the Old Synagogue and its associated sites were proposed for UNESCO World Heritage status in 2015. In September 2023, the Medieval Jewish Heritage of Erfurt was officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, cementing the Old Synagogue's place as a vital part of global cultural heritage.

Visiting the Old Synagogue in Erfurt is not just a journey through time; it's an opportunity to connect with the enduring legacy of a community that once thrived in the heart of Europe. The stories preserved within its ancient walls continue to resonate, offering profound insights into the resilience and cultural richness of Erfurt's Jewish history.