San Giovanni Fuoricivitas

San Giovanni Fuoricivitas, or the Church of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, is a remarkable gem nestled in the heart of Pistoia, Italy. This Romanesque marvel, whose name translates to St. John Outside the City, alludes to its origins beyond the original city walls. Embark on a journey through time as you explore this architectural masterpiece, which stands as a testament to the rich history and cultural heritage of the region.

The Historical Tapestry of San Giovanni Fuoricivitas

The story of San Giovanni Fuoricivitas begins in the Lombard era, though the original structure has long since vanished. The first documented mention of the church dates back to 1119, when it was described as almost in ruins. The construction of the current edifice likely commenced shortly after, continuing until 1344. This extensive timeline of building and renovation reflects the evolving architectural styles and the enduring significance of the church in Pistoia's religious and social life.

Throughout its history, San Giovanni Fuoricivitas has witnessed numerous transformations. Initially, it was a single-nave structure with an eastern apse, but later expansions incorporated the northern side of the cloister, resulting in the rectangular, single-apsed layout we see today. This adaptation over centuries makes the church a living chronicle of architectural evolution.

Architectural Splendor of the Exterior

The exterior of San Giovanni Fuoricivitas is a striking example of Pistoian Romanesque architecture, characterized by its distinctive bichrome pattern of white marble and green serpentine stone. This decorative style, reminiscent of the Pisano Romanesque, features intricate arcading and geometric designs that captivate the eye and invite closer inspection.

The northern façade, traditionally regarded as the main entrance, is adorned with a richly sculpted portal. The architrave, crafted by the master Gruamonte in 1166, depicts the Last Supper, with Jesus and his apostles gathered around a table. The scene is rendered in a rhythmic, almost schematic style, with Judas isolated below, emphasizing his betrayal. This artistic detail not only showcases the craftsmanship of the era but also serves as a visual narrative of biblical events.

Exploring the Cloister

What remains of the 12th-century cloister offers a rare glimpse into Romanesque construction in Pistoia. The cloister's mixed use of stone and brick, with stone columns topped by capitals adorned with lion and ox heads, exemplifies the harmonious blend of materials. In the 14th century, a loggia was added, enhancing the cloister's architectural complexity and providing visitors with a serene space for contemplation.

The Enchanting Interior

Stepping inside San Giovanni Fuoricivitas reveals a treasure trove of artistic and historical wonders. To the left of the entrance, you'll find Luca della Robbia's glazed terracotta group depicting the Visitation. This masterpiece, commissioned in 1445, is notable for being the first fully three-dimensional glazed terracotta work from the della Robbia workshop. The figures of the Virgin Mary and Saint Elizabeth, once adorned with gilded details, engage in a tender embrace, their gazes meeting in a heartfelt exchange.

The church also houses a remarkable marble holy water font from the 12th or 13th century, featuring the Cardinal Virtues, possibly crafted by Giovanni Pisano. The font is supported by caryatids representing the three Theological Virtues, showcasing the intricate artistry and theological symbolism prevalent during the period.

The Majestic Pulpit and Paintings

Against the southern wall stands the pulpit by Fra Guglielmo da Pisa, created in 1270. Initially situated in the Romanesque presbytery, the pulpit was relocated in the 17th century to its current position. The high-relief sculptures of Evangelists and Gospel scenes, set against a backdrop of colorful glass, offer a vivid portrayal of religious narratives.

Among the church's notable paintings is Taddeo Gaddi's polyptych, completed between 1350 and 1353. This exquisite work, located on the left wall of the presbytery, features the Madonna and Child surrounded by saints, with additional figures depicted in Gothic arches above. The vibrant colors and intricate details transport viewers to a bygone era of artistic splendor.

A Tapestry of Faith and Art

San Giovanni Fuoricivitas is more than just a church; it is a living museum of Romanesque art and architecture. Its walls echo with the stories of centuries past, offering visitors a unique opportunity to delve into the rich tapestry of history and faith that defines Pistoia. Whether you're an art enthusiast, a history buff, or a curious traveler, San Giovanni Fuoricivitas promises an unforgettable journey through the heart of Italy's cultural heritage.