Nestled in the ancient town of Pozzuoli, the Stadium of Antoninus Pius, known locally as Stadio di Antonino Pio, stands as a testament to the grandeur of Roman architecture and the cultural fusion of its time. Unearthed in 2008, this remarkable stadium offers a rare glimpse into the past, with its unique design and historical significance capturing the imagination of all who visit.
Commissioned by Emperor Antoninus Pius, the stadium was built to honor the philhellenic spirit of his predecessor, Hadrian. Situated near one of Cicero’s villas, it is said that Hadrian was initially buried here before being moved to Rome. The stadium was a vibrant venue for Greek-style games, known as Eusebeia, which included both athletic contests and musical performances. These events continued until the early 4th century AD, when the stadium was abandoned following the edicts of Theodosius.
Over the centuries, the stadium faced numerous challenges. A severe flood in the late Roman period buried much of the structure, leading to the construction of a late antique villa on its grounds. In 1538, the eruption of Monte Nuovo further concealed the stadium beneath layers of volcanic debris, leaving only the highest parts of the cavea and ambulacrum visible. It wasn’t until the early 19th century that these remnants were incorporated into a local farmhouse, preserving their legacy until modern excavations revealed the stadium’s full extent.
The Stadium of Antoninus Pius boasts a traditional rectangular design, with one curved short side and the other slightly curved for the athletes’ starting point. A monumental gateway on this side led directly to the track, while spectators entered from the northern front. The seating, or cavea, was divided into three sections: the lower ima cavea for important figures, the middle media cavea for the equestrian class, and the upper summa cavea for the general populace.
Today, the stadium’s original unity has been disrupted by the construction of the modern Via Domiziana in 1932, which sliced through its length. Despite this, the remaining sections offer an evocative insight into the past, with the restored monumental gateway showcasing the architectural prowess of the era.
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This grand entrance was originally adorned with a double row of arches made from piperno stone, covered in light plaster, and topped with a vaulted ceiling. During excavations, only the pillars of these arches remained intact, with the stones having collapsed over time. Through careful reconstruction using steel and tubular supports, the gateway has been restored to reflect its original grandeur, offering visitors a dramatic entry into the stadium’s history.
The stadium’s track, designed for various athletic competitions, was made of simple packed earth, easily maintained after events. Excavations revealed at least three phases of renovation, indicating the track’s importance and frequent use. The cavea, where spectators gathered, was separated from the track by a high wall, originally topped with a marble balustrade. The lower ima cavea retains two rows of piperno seats, while the media cavea was found in a collapsed state, devoid of its original seating. The upper summa cavea, supported by a long corridor known as the ambulacrum, remains partially visible, with its masonry structure still intact.
The northern side of the stadium featured multiple entrances, accessible from the ancient Via Domitiana, partially retraced by today’s Via Luciano. Excavations have uncovered the first of these entrances, revealing a rectangular forepart connected directly to the ambulacrum. The spaces between these foreparts were likely open and landscaped, offering a pleasant approach to the stadium.
The ambulacrum, a vaulted corridor running the length of the stadium, served dual purposes: supporting the upper cavea seating and filtering spectators to their seats. Originally, its walls were coated in plaster—red for the lower sections, matching the cocciopesto floor, and ochre for the upper walls and ceiling. Fragments of decorated plaster and painted inscriptions were discovered during excavations, providing a colorful glimpse into the stadium’s past.
Visiting the Stadium of Antoninus Pius is like stepping back in time. As you wander through its ancient corridors and gaze upon the reconstructed arches, you can almost hear the echoes of cheering crowds and the rhythmic pounding of athletes’ feet on the track. This site is not just an archaeological treasure but a vibrant reminder of the cultural and historical tapestry that defines Pozzuoli.
In conclusion, the Stadium of Antoninus Pius is a captivating destination for history enthusiasts and casual visitors alike. Its rich past, architectural beauty, and evocative atmosphere make it an essential stop on any journey through Italy’s storied landscapes. Whether you’re drawn to its historical significance or simply the allure of ancient Rome, this stadium offers a unique and unforgettable experience.
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