St. Mary's Royal Church

St. Mary's Royal Church, or Koninklijke Sint-Mariakerk as it is known in the local language, stands as a magnificent testament to architectural brilliance and historical significance in Schaerbeek, Belgium. This stunning Romanesque-Byzantine style church, situated on Place de la Reine, is not just a place of worship but a beacon of cultural heritage and artistic splendor.

The Origins and Grand Vision

The inception of St. Mary's Royal Church dates back to the 19th century, during the reign of King Leopold I. The king envisioned Brussels as a city of prestige, comparable to other European capitals. This vision included the development of the northeastern suburb of Brussels, extending the Rue Royale beyond the small ring road. The creation of the royal route, which connected the royal residence in Laeken to the Royal Palace of Brussels, was a significant part of this urban development plan. It was on this route, at the starting point of Rue des Palais, that a plot of land was earmarked for the construction of a grand church.

The rapidly growing population of Schaerbeek necessitated the establishment of a new parish. In 1839, Cardinal Sterckx founded a parish dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption. Initially, a temporary chapel was built on Rue Saint-Servais (now Place de la Reine) and opened for worship in 1840. However, the plan for a larger, more permanent church was already in motion. A competition was held for architects, and out of ten proposals, Louis van Overstraeten's design, inspired by the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy, was chosen. The octagonal architectural structure of the church harmonized perfectly with its location, open on three sides and prominently visible from the prestigious 2,000-meter-long Rue Royale.

The Long Journey of Construction

Construction of St. Mary's Royal Church began in August 1846. Given the anticipated lengthy construction period, it was decided that the church would be opened for worship as soon as the first gallery level was reached, with a temporary roof installed. The temporary chapel quickly became insufficient for the growing parish, which had swelled to 7,000 members. The sudden death of architect Louis van Overstraeten in 1849 further complicated matters, but his father-in-law, Louis Roelandt, took over the project.

The construction saw numerous interruptions and challenges, including financial difficulties and the death of key figures. Despite these setbacks, significant progress was made. The temporary roof was installed in 1852, and the church was opened for worship on August 15, 1853. The urbanization of the surrounding area accelerated with the opening of Rue de la Reine in 1858 and Rue Royale Sainte-Marie in 1870.

The construction of the choir resumed in 1859, and the three porches on the Rue Royale side were also built during this period. The tower began to take shape under the direction of architect Henri Detrille. Throughout the construction, various commissions and authorities, including the Commission of Monuments and the Ministry of Justice, intervened with suggestions and observations, often causing delays. After Roelandt's death in 1864, Gustave Hansotte succeeded him as the master architect.

The interior decoration of the church progressed steadily, with the installation of a communion rail, a high altar, and a statue of the Virgin Mary by Joseph Geefs in 1865. The organ, crafted by Devolder, was installed in the gallery, and the interior decoration continued to evolve. Despite financial difficulties, the construction of the dome resumed in 1875, and the temporary roof was replaced with a new structure in 1876. By 1883, all resources were exhausted, but a public competition and a lottery launched in 1887, under the patronage of Queen Marie-Henriette, provided the necessary funds to complete the construction. The final works were completed in 1888, marking the end of a 46-year-long construction journey.

The Interior Splendor

The interior of St. Mary's Royal Church is a marvel in itself. The stained glass windows, created by Jean-Baptiste Capronnier, were installed starting in 1887. Confessionals were added in 1894, and a new bell, crafted by Felix Van Aerschot, was installed in 1899, although it was later removed by German occupiers during World War II. Throughout the 20th century, the church continued to be adorned with appropriate furnishings, particularly in the secondary chapels. The communion rail, installed in 1905, and the organs by Jean-Émile Kerkhoff, added in 1907, are notable features.

One of the most significant pieces of furniture is the pulpit, created by Séraphin De Martelaere. Inspired by Giovanni Pisano's 14th-century work for the Cathedral of Pisa, the marble pulpit features high-relief copper panels, columns, and busts of church doctors and evangelists. This masterpiece contrasts with the traditional wooden pulpits commonly found in Belgian churches.

The sanctuary, redesigned starting in 1900, features a master altar in finely chiseled copper, replacing the original altar. The elaborate retable and predella depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, particularly her Assumption, created by M. Wilmotte. The tabernacle door is adorned with a bas-relief of the blessing Christ, surrounded by traditional evangelical symbols, and embellished with enamels and precious stones. The altar is crowned with a ciborium supported by double columns.

The Consecration and Legacy

On October 14, 1902, the church was solemnly consecrated on the Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary. The high altar was anointed and provided with relics transferred from the old altar by Cardinal Goossens, Archbishop of Mechelen, during a pontifical mass. A commemorative plaque on the wall marks this significant event.

St. Mary's Royal Church, with its unique architecture, historical significance, and artistic decorations, immediately became an important landmark in the Brussels urban landscape. However, the church has also faced continuous maintenance challenges. In 1907, urgent repairs were needed due to falling stones, and throughout the 20th century, water infiltration caused significant damage, necessitating ongoing restoration work. Major repairs were undertaken in 1923, and concerns about the large stained glass windows arose in 1927. Each time, the church authorities had to seek financial assistance from the state or local municipalities, often facing delays in receiving support.

Despite these challenges, St. Mary's Royal Church remains a symbol of resilience and dedication. Its walls echo the stories of the countless individuals who contributed to its construction and maintenance, making it a cherished historical and cultural treasure in Schaerbeek. Visitors to this magnificent church are not only treated to its architectural beauty but also to a profound sense of the rich history and enduring spirit that it embodies.