Nestled in the heart of Avilés, a charming city in Asturias, Spain, the Iglesia de San Francisco stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of history and architecture that defines this region. Known formally as the Church of San Nicolás de Bari, this remarkable edifice has witnessed centuries of change, surviving wars, revolutions, and natural disasters, all while maintaining its serene presence in the city’s historic center.
The roots of the Iglesia de San Francisco stretch back to the late 14th century, when it was originally constructed as part of a Franciscan monastery. However, archaeological discoveries have unearthed even older remnants, such as a Visigothic lattice that hints at a pre-Romanesque structure once standing on the same ground. Initially, the church comprised a single nave, which today forms the central aisle, measuring 40 meters in length and 10 meters in width.
In the 16th century, the church expanded with the addition of two smaller naves and a new sacristy. The construction of an adjoining cloister also began during this period. This cloister, with its nearly square layout, features two floors supported by Tuscan columns on the lower level and Ionic columns on the upper level, creating a harmonious blend of architectural styles.
The Spanish Civil War in 1936 brought turmoil to the Iglesia de San Francisco. The church was seized by the Popular Front, resulting in the loss of invaluable religious artifacts and artwork, including two 17th-century altarpieces. Despite these losses, the church’s resilience shone through as it later served as a warehouse and barracks during the conflict.
In the 1950s and 1960s, under the guidance of Ángel Garralda García, the church underwent significant restoration and expansion efforts. These included the construction of a new rectory, the extension of the central nave, and the renovation of the bell tower. A new crypt was also added, providing space for 198 niches. The restoration of the ancient cloister was completed in 1963, breathing new life into this historic space.
The Iglesia de San Francisco is a treasure trove of historical and artistic marvels. One of its most prized possessions is the baptismal font, a stunning Corinthian capital carved from a single block of marble. This Roman artifact, whose origins remain shrouded in mystery, adds a touch of ancient grandeur to the church.
The church's Romanesque façade, adorned with three semi-circular arches, is a remnant of the original Franciscan monastery and likely dates back to the 13th century. The main entrance, a Gothic portal from the 14th century, provides access to the central nave and is a striking example of medieval craftsmanship.
The 16th-century sacristy is another highlight of the Iglesia de San Francisco. This rectangular space is divided into two sections, topped with a barrel vault ceiling featuring lunettes and thermal windows. The sacristy houses paintings of significant value, including works by the 17th-century artist Bustamante, depicting Franciscan saints such as San Bernardino of Siena and San Luis of Toulouse. The central painting, attributed to Policarpo Soria, dates to the early 20th century.
The sacristy's decor, including its intricately carved furniture, is the handiwork of local craftsman Fernando Alonso, completed in the 1950s. The sacristy’s walls and ceilings are adorned with artwork by Gonzalo Pérez Espolita, adding to the room’s artistic allure.
One of the church’s most remarkable features is its parish archive, which has been preserved in its entirety since 1599. This archive has withstood the ravages of time, including wars and natural disasters, offering a unique glimpse into the historical and social fabric of Avilés over the centuries.
For visitors to Avilés, the Iglesia de San Francisco is a must-see destination. Its blend of historical significance, architectural beauty, and artistic treasures offers a captivating journey through time. As you explore its hallowed halls, you’ll discover the stories of resilience and faith that have shaped this extraordinary church.
Whether you’re an aficionado of history, architecture, or art, or simply a traveler seeking to experience the cultural richness of Asturias, the Iglesia de San Francisco promises a memorable and enlightening visit.
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