Leña Square, or Plaza de la Leña in its local name, is a charming medieval square nestled in the heart of Pontevedra's historic center. This picturesque square is a quintessential example of Galician medieval architecture, offering visitors a delightful glimpse into the region's rich history and cultural heritage. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a lover of architecture, or simply looking for a serene spot to enjoy a cup of coffee, Leña Square is a must-visit destination.
Leña Square's origins can be traced back to the late Middle Ages when it was known as Eirado in the 15th century. The square was a bustling marketplace where villagers from the surrounding areas would gather to sell firewood and pinecones, essential commodities for fueling the kitchens, hearths, and heating systems of the town's homes. Muleteers and peasant women would converge here with their carts and baskets, creating a lively and vibrant atmosphere.
Monday was the most important market day, as it was when the carts laden with oak wood, highly prized by bakers for their ovens, would arrive in the town. The square underwent significant changes in the 18th century when it was expanded and two grand baroque mansions, Pazo Castro Monteagudo and Pazo García Flórez, were constructed on its eastern side. These architectural marvels added a touch of grandeur to the square, which was officially named Plaza de la Leña in 1854.
Leña Square is renowned for its unique and picturesque architecture. The square itself has an irregular rectangular shape, and at its center stands a 15th-century granite cross, a testament to the region's deep-rooted religious traditions. The cross, originally from Caldas de Reis, was placed here in 1941 at the request of the famous Galician writer Castelao, who temporarily restored it for his work As cruces de pedra na Galiza.
The eastern side of the square is dominated by the imposing Pazo Castro Monteagudo and Pazo García Flórez, which are now part of the Pontevedra Museum. These baroque mansions are connected by a charming granite arch bridge, adding to the square's enchanting ambiance. Pazo Castro Monteagudo, dating back to 1760, features a balcony supported by large modillions and has served various purposes over the centuries, including housing a restaurant and a boys' school.
Pazo García Flórez, on the other hand, is distinguished by its massive stone coat of arms adorned with a helmet and stone statues representing hope and strength. This mansion was the seat of the School for Female Teachers from 1881 to 1930 and was inaugurated as a museum in 1943. Together, these buildings create a captivating backdrop that transports visitors to a bygone era.
Leña Square is not just about history and architecture; it is also a vibrant hub of local culture and gastronomy. Today, the square is dedicated to hospitality and dining, with several restaurants and cafes offering outdoor seating where visitors can savor traditional Galician cuisine. The square's charming surroundings, with their arcades, wooden galleries, and flower-adorned balconies, provide the perfect setting for a leisurely meal or a relaxing coffee break.
In 2006, the renowned Basque chef Iñaki Bretal opened his restaurant O Eirado da Leña in one of the square's historic houses. This culinary gem earned a Michelin star in 2020, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts. Another popular dining spot, the restaurant Loaira, opened its doors in 2009, further enhancing the square's reputation as a gastronomic destination.
Leña Square has not only captured the hearts of locals and tourists but has also inspired artists, writers, and filmmakers. Its picturesque charm has been immortalized in countless drawings, engravings, watercolors, and oil paintings by notable artists. The square has also served as a source of inspiration for writers and poets, including Viñas Calvo, who have celebrated its unique beauty in their works.
In 1998, several scenes from the film La Lengua de las Mariposas (The Butterfly's Tongue) by José Luis Cuerda were filmed in Leña Square, further cementing its place in popular culture. The square's timeless appeal continues to draw visitors who are captivated by its historical significance and enchanting atmosphere.
Leña Square is more than just a historic landmark; it is a living testament to Pontevedra's rich cultural heritage and architectural splendor. Its cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and vibrant atmosphere make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the historic center of Pontevedra. Whether you are drawn by its history, architecture, or culinary delights, Leña Square promises an unforgettable experience that will transport you back in time and leave you with lasting memories.
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