Plaza de la Peregrina, nestled in the heart of Pontevedra, Spain, is a captivating blend of history, culture, and architectural splendor. This 18th-century plaza, with its unique triangular shape and cobblestone pathways, is a bustling hub that offers a glimpse into the rich heritage and vibrant life of this Galician city.
The name of the plaza is derived from the Church of the Virgen Peregrina, which proudly stands on its eastern side. The history of this location can be traced back to 1180 when a column, known as a rollo, marked the jurisdictional domain of the archbishops of Santiago de Compostela. This column, which also served as a pillory, was replaced by the church that now dominates the plaza.
In the 15th century, this area, adjacent to the city walls of Pontevedra, housed a cluster of buildings for public women. By the late 18th century, with the construction of the church, the plaza emerged as a peripheral esplanade outside the walled city, strategically positioned along the Portuguese Way and near the Trabancas gate and tower.
The atrium of the church was constructed around 1793, and the surrounding area saw significant transformations with the demolition of the Trabancas gate in 1852. Subsequently, residential buildings for the bourgeoisie began to spring up around the plaza, adding to its urban charm. The plaza's name was briefly changed to Plaza de la Libertad in 1931, but it reverted to its original name later on.
One of the most striking features of the Plaza de la Peregrina is the Church of the Virgen Peregrina. This baroque and neoclassical church, built in the 18th century, is unique in Spain for its circular design with a scallop shell-shaped floor plan, symbolizing the pilgrimage. The church is adorned with statues of the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, and Saint James, all depicted as pilgrims. Inside, a 19th-century image of the Virgin Peregrina holds a place of reverence.
Another architectural gem is the Casa de la Cofradía de la Virgen Peregrina, or Casa Portela, located on the northern side of the plaza. This modernist building, dating back to 1854, features striking Art Nouveau decorations by architect Antonio López Hernández. The intricate galleries and balconies, especially the iron-cast ones, are among the oldest in the city. The interior houses a preserved section of the old city wall, adding a touch of historical intrigue to the building.
In the western part of the plaza, near the beginning of Michelena Street, stands a statue dedicated to Ravachol, a parrot that became a local legend. Ravachol lived in the pharmacy of Don Perfecto Feijoo from 1891 until its death in 1913. The bird was known for its mimicry and became a beloved figure in Pontevedra. In 2006, a statue of Ravachol was unveiled in the plaza, commemorating the centenary of its death and adding a whimsical touch to the historical space.
The Plaza de la Peregrina is not just a historical landmark; it is a vibrant urban space that continues to play a central role in the life of Pontevedra. The plaza is pedestrianized, making it a pleasant area for locals and tourists to stroll, relax, and soak in the atmosphere. The cobblestone streets and open layout, resulting from a 2001 renovation, make it an inviting space for social gatherings and cultural events.
The atrium of the Church of the Virgen Peregrina, with its stone balustrades and central fountain topped by a statue of Teucer, the legendary founder of Pontevedra, is a focal point of the plaza. This space has historically been a venue for social events and continues to be a popular spot for locals and visitors alike.
The streets converging at the Plaza de la Peregrina, such as Michelena, Oliva, Peregrina, Benito Corbal, and Antonio Odriozola, offer a myriad of shops, cafes, and restaurants. These bustling streets reflect the lively spirit of Pontevedra, providing ample opportunities for shopping, dining, and exploring the local culture.
The plaza also serves as a waypoint on the Portuguese Way, one of the routes of the Camino de Santiago, adding a layer of spiritual significance to the area. Pilgrims passing through the plaza often stop to admire the church and take a moment of reflection before continuing their journey.
In conclusion, Plaza de la Peregrina is more than just a historical site; it is a living, breathing part of Pontevedra that encapsulates the city's rich past and dynamic present. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a traveler looking to experience the heart of Galicia, a visit to this charming plaza is an absolute must.
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