San Marco, known locally as Chiesa di San Marco, is a fascinating blend of history and architectural evolution nestled in the heart of Vercelli, Italy. This former Gothic church, with its roots stretching back to the 13th century, offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the past, while its modern transformation into a vibrant exhibition space adds a contemporary twist to its storied walls.
The origins of San Marco date back to 1212 when it began as a humble oratory. It was the initiative of a group of evangelical preachers, who later joined the Order of the Hermits of Saint Augustine, that led to its construction as a church. The foundation stone was laid on August 19, 1246, marking the start of a challenging construction journey that spanned centuries. Economic hurdles were a constant companion, prompting indulgences from Pope Clement IV and the Archbishop of Milan to encourage donations.
The church's construction was completed in stages, with significant progress made in 1344 and final touches added in 1479. The church was consecrated in 1455, a ceremony graced by the presence of the Duke of Savoy and the blessed Augustinian friar Martino da Curino. Over the centuries, the church served not only as a place of worship but also as a testament to the artistic patronage of noble families like the Savoia, Avogadro, and Pettenati, who commissioned works from renowned artists such as Gaudenzio Ferrari and Martino Spanzotti.
The winds of change swept through San Marco during the Napoleonic era when it was repurposed for various secular uses, including a stint as a public market. This transformation was formalized in 1883 when the church was adapted to house the city's fruit and vegetable market, known to locals as Il Serraglio. The facade was altered to reflect its new role, with large windows installed to enhance lighting and ventilation, a design crafted by Giuseppe Locarni.
Despite these changes, the building's Gothic soul remained intact. The structure, with its basilica-style layout, features three naves supported by a series of cylindrical and cruciform pillars. The central nave, grander than its counterparts, leads to an intricately vaulted apse, a testament to the church's enduring architectural beauty.
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One of the intriguing aspects of San Marco is its fourth nave, added in the 15th century. This section housed richly decorated chapels, including the Pettenati Chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Tolentino. After a lengthy restoration process, this chapel was reconnected to the main church in 2022, revealing stunning frescoes and a celestial lapis lazuli ceiling.
The campanile, or bell tower, offers another glimpse into the past. Often mistaken for an Avogadro family tower, this octagonal structure dates back to the 13th century and remains unaltered. Its simple yet elegant design, with intertwining arches and a solitary row of decorative corbels, complements the church's Gothic aesthetic.
Adjacent to the church once stood a thriving monastery, expanding over the centuries to accommodate the growing needs of its inhabitants. Although the religious orders were eventually suppressed, the monastery's legacy endures through its architectural remnants and historical significance.
San Marco also hosted numerous gentilitial chapels, each reflecting the patronage of noble families. These chapels evolved over time, with some, like the Avogadro and Pettenati chapels, becoming focal points of religious and artistic expression. The 1478 inscription on a column near the organ documented the existence of ten chapels, a number that grew to eighteen by 1584, showcasing the church's dynamic history.
Today, San Marco serves as a cultural beacon in Vercelli, its ancient walls now home to the Arca exhibition space. This transformation has breathed new life into the historic structure, allowing it to continue its legacy as a center of community and culture. Visitors can explore its rich history while engaging with contemporary art and exhibitions, experiencing a unique blend of past and present.
In conclusion, San Marco is more than just a former church; it is a living tapestry of Vercelli's history and culture. Its journey from a medieval place of worship to a modern exhibition space is a testament to the resilience and adaptability of this remarkable edifice. Whether you're a history enthusiast or a lover of art, a visit to San Marco promises a memorable experience, blending the echoes of the past with the vibrancy of the present.
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